NOTE!
This just an abbreviated guide with hints and some experience added. It is suggested that you have a genuine Suzuki service manual to refer to at all times.

If you have a question about ANYTHING or are unclear about what to do, call us, call your dealer, call somebody, call anybody, but don't think that you can't break anything, put something together wrong, hurt yourself, or worse, hurt somebody else. BE CAREFUL.   Marc

REMOVE THE IGNITION KEY

and either:
1. drain the oil
2. lean bike over to the right, so that 1 cup of oil doesn't leak out when you pull the cover.

It makes pretty good power, with Twin Works (Zoran's) bored throttle bodies, mixed and matched intake cams and an exhaust system.

We tuned custom length  Factory Pro V stacks for it, tested The RTR-SUZ-36-04 +4 ignition advance key and tuned the PC3 for both R-Tech Pro V and pump premium.

The stacks were good for 1-2 improvement on top with the High Rpm setup and 4ish improvement in the midrange with the midrange set.
The Pro V was good for 1.7 TRUE HP (not dynojet hp) at high rpm, and about the same or slightly better at low rpm.

Note:
HP changes when testing different fuels are variable. The better a particular fuel's "burn rate" and other characteristics match each modified engine's compression and ignition timing, the better the HP improvement.
That's probably why, on the same model bike, one dyno operator can test "some modified engine bike" and get "XX" hp improvement, another dyno operator can test a different modified engine on the same model bike and lose HP and yet another dyno operator, can see essentially, no hp change with the very same fuel on a different modified engine.
There's also the set of engine internal temperatures resulting from common, but unrealistic bad dyno testing errors. Common dealership level dynos, that test in "4th gear sweeps" are misleading - internal engine (piston, plug and combustion chamber) can be off by as much as 7% to 10%.
That results in large fuel "burn rate" errors and are a large part of "what works best on an unsophisticated dealership level dyno" is not what works best in the real world" operation.
In the case of fuels, it's not uncommon that a lot of dealership level dyno testing will result in choosing a fuel that isn't actually the fuel that works the best on the real world.

So, on to the ignition advance install.........

Tap with a plastic mallet to break the cover gasket free.

fwiw, 90% of the time, the gasket won't break, but do you feel lucky? (have a spare gasket handy......)

To get the gear hole to line up with the crankcase hole,  use a 17mm wrench to wiggle the crankshaft while "eye balling" the hole alignment, the gently inserting the idler shaft and wiggling the crank till it  finally slips into place.

While keeping the idler shaft in place, rotate the crank so that the "F" mark on the flywheel is at about 12 o'clock. That will put the woodruff key slot essentially "up".

While keeping the idler shaft in place, rotate the crank so that the "F" mark on the flywheel is at about 12 o'clock. That will put the woodruff key slot essentially "up". On an SV type engine, if you lined up the "F" mark at the stock timing inspection window in the cover before removing the cover, it will be at about 10:30. (still ok).

(Thanks Don for the SV/DL pics)

The grease is to lubricate the threads and crank face and help prevent galling when you are impacting the puller bolt

Read below frame.

About 99% of the rotors will pop right off with a few short 3-4 hit Impact Wrench bursts.
1% will be tougher.

Some will sit there and not pop off after after 10-12  short "3-4  pulse hits".

If the flywheel doesn't just pop off after a few "3-4 pulse hits" (and 99% will), then, go to what I call "Mode 2".

You've given 10 or so "3-4 hits" and it didn't pop off, so now, just walk away, come back at least 10-15 minutes later and give the puller another "3-4 hit pulse". If it doesn't pop off, walk away. Repeat till flywheel pops off, even to the extent of leaving the puller torqued in, overnight.

If, after overnight, and a few "hit and waits" in the AM, it still doesn't pop off (and you are using a proven strength 1/2" Impact Wrench), then I would suspect that you have one of the "tight" 1%'ers.and suggest 1 of 3 options.
1. Stop and give up. (You don't HAVE to have an ignition advance, do you?)
2. Unscrew the puller, re-grease and try a few more "hit and waits" in 10 hit increments, getting closer to stripping the puller and maybe the the flywheel threads (stripped threads are only actually expensive if you insist on pulling the flywheel, ever).
3. Call your friendly local dealer to do it, be honest and tell them what you are doing and tell them that the flywheel isn't popping off. If you've done the above, it's likely that your dealer might not be able to do it either.

and a 4th option that's not 1 of the 3 good options:
4. Put it all back to together and don't tell the dealer that the flywheel wasn't popping off.
That's got you a good chance of them, working in good faith, stripping the flywheel, because they don't know that the flywheel is a "tight one".

I've run into only 1-2 flywheels in SV/DL's that just refused to pop off (out of literally 100's), even after 10 hit increments, an "overnight" and a few more hits during the next day. I eventually deferred to option 1 (you don't REALLY have to have an ignition advance, do you?). But I do remember a flywheel that popped off after a couple DAYS of patient "hit and waits!)

Now that I've scared you........  the SV type engines are usually relatively easy.  Marc

If not, put the flywheel back on, the bolt back in lightly impact it in and use a 17mm wrench to turn the crank to put the keyway slot at 12 o'clock. Then remove the flywheel again.

MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE IDLER SHAFT INSTALLED when you turn the crank or THINGS WILL BREAK!

Be careful to prevent the key from bouncing down, behind the starter clutch gear and into the nether regions of your dark, unreachable voids of your crankcases.

This type of key was developed by W.N. Woodruff of Connecticut, who was presented in 1888 with the John Scott Medal by the Franklin Institute for the invention.^[1]

from Wikipedia

When a woodruff key is used on a tapered shaft fit (like the tapered shaft on the crank and the flywheel), the key is actually only used for lining up the shaft and flywheel before it's tightened and "pressed onto" and locked in place by the "wedging action" of the two "fits".

When key is installed with offset to the LEFT (the same way the engine rotates), you are advancing the ignition timing. (normally, that's how you'd install).

One end of the key slips into the crank's slot and the outer part shifts the flywheel over to rotate the flywheel (and the bumps on the perimeter that trigger the ignition pulses) to the left, in direction of engine rotation, to advance the ignition timing.

You "could" install the key with the offset to the right to retard the timing, should you need to do that for nitrous or turbo apps.

Make sure idler gear shaft is properly in place.

Line up flywheel with key and jiggle till the flywheel engages properly with the starter clutch behind.

Replace 17mm flywheel bolt, 87 ft/lbs is the book specified torque (some mechanics with good feel use an impact wrench).

Replace the cover. Reinstall the cover bolts. 5-7ft/lbs is the torque.

If you drained or lost any oil, CHECK AND REFILL THE OIL before starting!!!!