Honda VTR1000 Superhawk, 98 and up
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SHFT-EVO-HON-77 Shift STAR kit |
EVO Shift STAR Kit
FIX clunky Honda shifting - eliminate missed shifts - make
in-town driving silky SMOOTH - Closest thing to Formula 1 paddle shifter for
a motorcycle!!
Call 800 869-0497 for info!
I put an EVO Shift STAR on my Superhawk recently and it made a
huge difference. New bike bug bit and now I need one for the '04 CBR100RR!
(It's ready!)
Great product.
Thanks,
Brad Crawshaw
Carburetor Tuning Kits |
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CRB-H77-1.7-RK $199.95 USD |
This kit requires a bit more work
to install than the 1.0 or 1.1-ti ProKit. The advantage is that the
kit will produce a bit more power at all rpms than any standard, drop-in
style kit. Tuning is actually easier after the installation at base
settings. July 2006 Adrian Davis wrote:
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CRB-H77-1.1-TI $129.95 USD |
Titanium needles for lifetime use.
Adds more low-end / midrange, if the proper main jet is selected, more
top-end power. Easy to install and tune - no slide drilling. The Ti
ProKit has the same needle profile as the 1.0 kit. |
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CRB-H77-1.0 $109.95 USD |
Stainless needles for lifetime use.
Adds more low-end / midrange, if the proper main jet is selected, more
top-end power. Easy to install and tune - no slide drilling. The Ti ProKit has the same needle profile as the 1.0 kit. |
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Hybrid Ceramic Wheel Bearings | |||
$199.95 Hybrid Ceramic intro special reg $299.95 4 bearing kit front and rear wheel bearing set pn: BE-HYCER-H77-98-05 |
Hybrid Ceramic Wheel Bearings 4 bearing set 2 front wheel bearings 2 rear wheel bearings (does not include sprocket carrier bearing) Tough steel races and almost friction free ceramic balls. Bearings have rubber seals that are easy to remove if desired. marc@factorypro.com |
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Ignition Components |
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RTR-HON-77-02 $109.95 DISCONTINUED |
Improve MILEAGE!!!! (and power) |
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Transmission Shift Improvement |
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Shift Star Kit
rpl 24315-mv9-932 star, 24430-mBB-000 arm and
24435-mbb-000
spring |
Factory Pro's Shift STAR kit The full kit (stage 1 and stage 2 kit combination) THE ULTIMATE IN SHIFTING Precision (star, arm and spring kit) Make shifting MUCH quicker and virtually eliminate missed shifts. Helps address missed shifts caused by poor shift detent "star" profile. MUCH more consistent shifting! Not at liberty to disclose WHO used this kit on their F4's......... User's comments NOTE: Quickshifters must decrease shift kill time by aprox. 10ms.
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Test # |
Test Description |
from | to | changes | Results |
Test #1: |
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stock exhaust and stock carburetion |
to |
slip-ons and CRB-H77-1.0 Factory Carb Recal. Kit | More power and response everywhere. |
Test #2: |
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stock ignition timing |
to |
RTR-HON-77-04 Ignition Advance Rotor | More power at full throttle, more power at part throttle, Better fuel mileage reported by everyone who reported. |
Base Test..........All stock carb and exhaust
Final.................Factory Carb Recalibration Kit and TBR Slip-ons
Actual Screen on EC997 Eddy Current Dyno
CRB-H77-1.0 or 1.1-TI Carb Recalibration
Kit
Ignition Advance Test
(different bike from above)
Base Test..........Factory Pro CRB-H77-1.7-RK RaceKit with ~2 inch race slipons
Final.................same bike with Factory Pro RTR-HON-77-04 Ignition Advance Rotor
Actual Screen on EC997 Eddy Current Dyno
This graph shows the difference between original ignition timing and our +4 Advance
Rotor.
The +2 and +6 rotors, when used with Factory Pro #1.7-RK RaceKit, did not make the
same improvements throughout the powerband.
The 1-2 True HP increases show part of the picture, but a big improvement in throttle
response was realized, with more snap response evident at every rpm.
Results with the standard #1.0 or #1.1-TI Recalibration Kits should be similar.
(Remember, these HP numbers are True Rear Wheel HP Scale, measured on an EC997 Eddy Current Dyno, so they will be 12% to 18% lower than lightweight inertia dyno readings!)
Throttle Position Sensor setting
MUST be set at 490 ohms at idle setting
Unplug from harness and measure sensor across 2 of the 3 leads.
It's common to find them set at 800 to 900 ohms.
If the TPS is not set correctly, idle and CRUISE quality will be poor / too rich.
It may be necessary to remove the brass collar.
Use 5mm x 12mm to replace torx bolts.
Emulsion Tubes
They are different - front to rear
The rear one is leaner at cruise than the front (as delivered)
For persistent over richness at cruise, you can use another rear emulsion tube to lean out the front cylinder. The higher holes delay the onset of fuel delivery. Diagnosed by the need to have the front fuel screw almost closed for best idle - That's a superb test for pilot jet size.
Best idle should be obtained between 1.5 and 3 turns out - if you have the correct size pilot jet and TPS adjusted to 500 ohms and you don't need a rear emu tube in the front - as some vtr's require -
Links
Feedback: ignition advance 1
From: Marz <marrz@primus.com.au>
3:28 AM
Subject: Kit Parts
To: info@factorypro.com
The advance plate has made a difference to mileage and throttle response,
just like you said it would... It's so hard to find companies that produce a product
that actually does what it says. Keep up the good work, I'm one happy customer so
far.
Feedback
Subject: Re; Jet kits results...
Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 09:26:09 -0500 (CDT)
From: bike-freak@webtv.net
To: info@factorypro.com
Just a quick note to tell you what a fine job you do on R&D. I just installed a
Ti kit in my 99 ZRX (Kerker slip-on, K&N filter, foam removed from snorkel throat,
and trimmed side cover). 100 mains, e-clip on 3rd slot, and 2.5 turns on mixture
screws. Pulls great from idle to redline using your recommended base settings. By
the way my other 3 bikes (98 VTR, 97 Bandit 1200S, and 94 CB1000) have had the same
results with your kits. I never even consider purchasing kits from you know who.
Thanks again for well researched products.
John
HawkRider0@aol.com wrote:
Hi,
Just got a 1.1 Ti kit for my '98 Honda VTR1000. What are your recommended
carb settings with a K&N filter and Sudco or Hindle slip-ons? Power is great where
I have it. I never thought wheelies could be this easy!
But...idle fluctuates between 900-1400 rpm depending on heat of
the engine, and sometimes it dies when coming to a stop. My current settings are:
#50 slow jet
182 main front
185 main rear
clips on 4th from top
mixture screws 2.5 turns out
I'm thinking I need to turn the mixture screws in about 1/2 turn. What do
you think?
Thanks!
Greg N.
Charleston, SC
Hi Greg,
Try just adjusting the front cylinder fuel screw only for best possible idle. Once
you've done that, adjust the rear cylinder fuel screw.
Don't fret if they are different.
Once you've done the best you can with this method, email settings. Sometimes, there's
more that can be done - but you have to do the fuel screws first to diagnose!
There are NO absolute settings for EVERY vtr!
Cheers!
Marc
From: Dmowen5@aol.com
Wed 5:28 PM
Subject: VTR 1000
To: info@factorypro.com
I installed a spark advancer, works great, doesn't seem to vibrate as much as before.
Could be that my nerve sensors are gone. Anyway it sure runs great.
Needles are in the #5 pos. and #182 jet in front carb and #185 rear works great.
Thanks for all your help in the past.
Don Owen
Use 5 minute epoxy to seal the overlarge holes and a very sharp (aka: "new") drill bit to redrill them smaller.
Factory Pro equipment across the world
send your pics
info@factorypro.com
Simon Wells
from
September 2012