Sponsor of Michael Jordan Racing, #1 Vesrah Racing and Robert Jenson

 Suzuki gsxr1000 09-11

Jake Zemke / Jordan Motorsports

1-2 AMA Superbike Wins Daytona International Raceway

Congratulations Jake, Pete and Shane Meyers on the first 2010 rides and 2 2010 wins for Jordan.
 Winner Daytona AMA Superbike 2x!

Factory Pro is proud to be the EC997 dyne system Test Equipment supplier
and a tuning Product choice of
Michael Jordan Motorsports / Gemini Racing.

Factory Pro
Teka SFI
Suzuki FI programming tool

Billet Velocity Stacks, Factory Pro Design

 
sample

pn: VEL-S62-MIDRANGE (drag and road race)

longer MIDRANGE stacks

AMA Proven - the same style stacks that most AMA Suzuki 1000's use.

Specially designed for street and any racing where you want more midrange.

Power is boosted in low, mid and upper mid - in other words, in the areas that you usually ride at. Usual peak gains are 2-4 in different rpm ranges from user feedback) True HP at peak is about the same as stock, maybe a bit better.

Stack Install Instructions

 
sample

pn: VEL-S62-Hi rpm
(drag and road race)

shorter Hi rpm stacks

AMA Daytona Proven - the same style stacks that most AMA Suzuki 1000's use.

A very special stack set designed to improve peak power and "over rev" on the 09/10 1000.

Specially designed for pro level ROAD racing on high speed tracks like Daytona and Road America and any level DRAG racing, (especially for amateur drag racers who think that they should bounce the engine off the rev limiter at every shift)

Power is boosted in high pre-peak,  peak and past the power peak for better power at redline. Usual peak gains are 2-4 (average of 3 from user feedback) True HP at peak and better power at the rev limit. No hp improvements, except for slightly better throttle response at low and midrange rpms.

The good news is that they are the among the lightest weight aluminum stacks we've ever made and the clamps are Gen 2 style, lighter, more elegant.

Stack Install Instructions

sample picture

pn: VEL-S62-304050
Tuner's Kit

$599.95

AMA Proven.

Superflare TUNER'S KIT

Selection of usual sizes and special longer "one-off sizes":
2 ea: 30mm, 40mm, 50mm (mm height from airbox floor)
1 set:  hold down clamps.

The Tuner's Kit was designed for professional Road Race and Drag Race tuners who are doing national class engine building and tuning.

Why a selection of sizes?
Engines with different cam timing, lobe centers, different cams, porting, different tracks (to bias power towards low, mid or high rpm power) will want different lengths on the Suzuki 1000 - in fact, on most 1000cc bikes.

National Level tuners are driven to provide maximum track performance on every engine.

Maximum delivered performance can range from using a set of stacks that provide strong midrange for exiting corners, to softening and broadening the power to biasing the power to "power past the redline" and softening the midrange for easier corner exits.

It's up to the tuner dyno work and the rider's riding reports to determine which stack setup on a given engine configuration  helps the rider deliver the quickest lap times.

Drag Racing
The same conditions apply - Build an engine, tune it -  and then decide which stacks the engine land rider likes for quickest ET..

It's suggested to use a low inertia load dyno to determine best stack setups as high inertia dynos tend to flatten out apparent power past the power peak due to insufficient combustion chamber temperatures..
 

Stack Install Instructions
 

Fuel Injection Tuning, Teka SFI (Suzuki Fuel Injection Tool)

The TEKA line of fuel injection products features the
Teka SFI 2

$695
base unit - accessories extra

Teka SFI 2
It's the Factory pro designed tool specifically designed to reprogram the stock Suzuki ECU / computer.

As compared to a power commander, Major features are virtually 100% reliability, as the reliability is the same as the stock ECU and there is no permanently mounted add-on box to fail and changes take 30 seconds and NO laptop.

Realtime tuning, no maps to lose, no problems with RF interference, no computer required to tune, no instant 1% to 2% hp loss w/ zero map, Easy to tune at the track on the pit wall, takes only about 20 seconds to make changes, easy to change during a 600 mile service, easy to tune for those new pipes your parts dept. just sold, no waiting in line for someone to non-optimally "tune to an a/f ratio", fits in your back pocket, digital accuracy, and do one, a 100 or a 1000 bikes.

Team Vesrah, Suzuki Cup World Champion Robert Jensen, Hooters Racing and many more have and use the TEKA SFi.
In fact, 5 WERA National Championships and one World Championship were won using the TEKA SFi.

In a championship race, even one power commander failure can mean winning the overall and finishing second in a years worth of work - 

Tiny!
Teka MMT Module
EZ tune MMT (adj. memory module) Power Tube

1 MMT module + shipping

1 MM module + domestic USA shipping $243.95 1 MM module + International shipping $261.95

Additional notes for seller

After tuning with a Teka SFI 2,
you can use this optional module to fine fine adjust fueling with a screwdriver adjustable rotary switch.

MMT plugs right in to the bikes tuning port (same as the SFI).

If tuning with the SFI 2 / MMT combination:
The MMT is plugged into the bike, the SFI 2 is plugged into the MMT and all tuning settings from the SFI 2 are stored in the MMT and automatically transferred to the bike.
After SFI tuning, the SFI is removed and the MMT is left on the bike.
Then, for any fine tuning or adjusting after you maybe change air filters or similar or high altitude or a lot of freeway riding, you can just tweak the MMT Power Select Switch to a different number.
"5" = "as tuned with the SFI 2
"6" to "9" = incrementally richer
"4" to "1" = incrementally richer
"0" = "All zero ECU settings

If tuning with the MMT only (without custom SFI tuning):
If just installing an MMT without SFI custom  retuning, just installing the MMT will allow you to adjust, globally, incrementally richer or leaner with the Power Select rotary switch.

If you first install an MMT and decide the have it custom tuned with the SFI 2,  no problem.
Just plug the SFI 2 into the MMT's Tuning port and tune that perfect map.

Then, you still have the ability to "trim" map for conditions with the Power Select Switch - and you even have, by setting it at "0", to recheck how the "zero" map was in comparison to your "SFI Tuned Map". 

EZ install - all stock connectors, no splicing.
  

Factory Pro's famous Shift STARR

Suzuki 1000 Shift STAR
(the 1000 only needs the STAR (the stock spring and arm are ok)
$139.95

gsxr1000 Evo Shift STARR

Shifts quicker
Shifts smoother by foot and air
Less unsettling to the bike when road racing
 Virtually eliminates missed shifts
Decreases required "shift kill" time on your Quickshifter by 5-10 ms, improving ET.
(I can't believe that you don't already have one)

Takes about an hour to install - just right behind the clutch basket.

The "Paddle Shifter" for your foot -
The Suzukis (and ZX10's, zx6's, cbr600rr's, and the Yamaha's need help in shifting.
Specifically, the late style gsxr shift action is very flat feeling and gives very little tactile feedback as to confidence that it's really in gear or not. I hate it when you shift and you can hear the shift mechanism sort of  lazily "kathwaka" into it's "maybe" final gear location. I like a confident, proper "snick"!
They had it so close to "almost good"  in 99 - I'm not sure why they changed it for the "non-better".... Oh well - After redesigning and testing and redesigning and testing, and redesigning and testing...... I now see how easy it is to get it wrong, though.
We have a new detent "star" with a copyrighted profile- so it's copyrighted) that includes a peculiar combination of compound arcs and radii that produces a shift action that makes it almost impossible to miss a shift ("almost"), especially 2nd gear in upshifts and all the downshifts - At least, if you miss 2nd, now, you will be REALLY surprised - cause it's now such a rare occurrence.
Downshifting confidence is 100% easier and better - just as important as not missing upshifts.

Beautifully machined on 8 Axis CNC machinery, machined from solid Cro Mo steel bar stock, heat treated, Gold Zinc plated, a complex radii, beautiful part. $139.95.

NOTE  - QUICKSHIFTERS

The Factory Pro Shift STAR shifts 5 to 15 ms quicker than the stock star.
You must decrease shift kill time by around 10 ms (milliseconds) after installing a shift STAR.
If you don't, shifting will be clunkier than the stock star.
Thank you Blackfoot Racing for info on that.

And I'm not sure why drag racers don't use more STARs. The air shifter only shifts 1/2 way into the gear and the shift mechanism has to complete it - the STAR is 5-15 ms quicker at that job.

Power Commander Ignition Module Notes

In my experience, the $350 Power Commander Ignition module "says" +/- "10", but it really only seems to change the ignition timing about +/-2-3 degrees (as of at least 02/09).  This was backed up by a DJ importer's experience.
According to a customer, dj told him  that ignition timing, doesn't affect power very much.
That's just wrong.
Factory Pro has over 30 years of research and development in high accuracy tuning in general and 20 years in producing Ignition Advancers (which REALLY DO change the ignition timing!)  and we've been producing dynamometers that read to .1 and .2 HP increments.

Testing on real load dyno, under realistic load, multiple DJ Ignition Modules on 600's and 1000's show that DJ +10  to DJ -10 "DJ degrees" equals aromd a 1% to 2% HP spread.
How could you change ignition timing a supposed "TWENTY DEGREES" and only affect the HP by 1% to 2%????

You can't change the ignition timing 20 degrees and only affect the power by a couple percent -  That's an obvious fact.
If you had "Best Power" ignition timing set and you retard or advance the timing a REAL 10 degrees, the bike world hardly run, losing around 10% - 20% True HP  if you retarded it.
if you advanced it a real 10 degrees, you'd lose a bunch of power, too and also, likely, give it fits of detonation.

Now - I'm still perplexed about the guy who posted that he gained 7 HP on his dynojet dyno with a "+5" setting on his DJ Ign Module!  - .5 DJ degrees /  about 1 REAL degree = 5 hp? and also perplexed about the ignition map that I got from a DJ sponsored Race team that showed +1 and +2 and -1's in their "official"  map! Lessee? They changed the ignition timing a miniscule  real .2 degree and they could see that hp change?
The 06 R6 that we were working on? It actually wanted more than 10 "dynojet degrees" in quite a few every part throttle positions for Best Power settings and all of the full throttle settings ended up at +5 to +10 "dynojet degrees". Compare that to the zero settings at full throttle that were supplied and the +1, +2 an +3 "dj degree" settings that were supplied.

A significant ignition timing change, that power can be measured would MAYBE be a real 1 degree - but you can only measure the HP change if the fuel mixture is absolutely PERFECT for Best power (NOT to misleading dealership level "AFR tuning") already -

 Normally, a REAL 2 degrees ignition timing change will change the power (on a Perfectly fueled engine) by about 1%.

(example 100 True HP > 101 True HP if a "good direction change" OR 99 True HP if it was "the wrong 2 deg direction change").

So - the only reason to run a DJ Ignition Module is to use a DJ Quickshifter (until the TEKA 4 QS upgrade is released)
 the DJ Ignition function is, otherwise, essentially $350 useless cost.

When tuning on and EC997 dyno, (which has the capability of measuring .1 to .2 HP changes), essentially, there are only a couple of DJ Ign Module settings:
Zero
+ or - 5 Dynojet degrees or
+ or 1 10 Dynojet degrees
and maybe "7" if "5" and "10" make the same power
Don't expect huge HP changes - as, as described above, you'll see 1 or 2 hp at best (at least on a real dyno)

So - what does that tell you?
That you need to do testing on a high quality dyne system, like the Factory Pro EC997 .
Then, you too, can learn all these "unpopular" facts!
Like inertia HP isn't real HP in the real world, dj hp numbers are bogus, tuning to an AFR for best performance is a myth....
Join Jordan Racing and Vesrah Racing and Suzuki NZ -

(I'm sure that the guy who got "7 DJHP" with a real 1 degree (aka: 5 Dynojet degrees)  isn't my buddy right about now, though....)
 

Best regards - Marc
 

Suzuki GSXR1000 k9 2009 - 2010 Velocity Stacks
(thanks to Glenn, Brian and Sable at Santa Rosa Powersports 707 545-1606 for the use of one of their gsxr1000's for install pictures.

Disclaimer
This is a rough idea of the install concept - they are by no means totally inclusive of every item that should be checked. If you don't have a Genuine Suzuki Shop Manual for all the proper warnings, don't attempt this, if you have any doubts, don't do this. If this violates any emissions laws in your state, step away from the bike.

You MUST have a Genuine Suzuki Service Manual for this bike.

Tools and supplies:
Thread locking compound (mild)
Normal metric hand tools
a 7" to 9" #2 Phillips screwdriver
Allen wrenches, 4mm and 5mm, 3/8" drive
Torque wrench
Genuine Suzuki Service Manual

1. Remove right and left side "tank/seat" frame panels -  single 4mm allen is on tank - They are also attached with "Velcro". and 2 rubber grommet / post mounts.

2. Remove 2 seat mount screws and lift off seat.

3. Remove passenger seat.

4. Locate and remove the silver metal "tank hold up rod".

5. Remove the 2 front hold down allen screws at the front of the tank.

6. Lift up the front of the tank and use the "tank hold up rod" to hold the tank up.

we took the tank completely off for pictures.

To get under the tank, if there is a "normal" and a "long" screwdriver #2 Phillips length, this will take a "medium". About 8 inches or a 1/4" drive #2 Phillips driver. 3/8" allen socket is too big of a diameter for the airbox hole.

Unscrew the 6 stock velocity stack mounting screws. Lift out the stock velocity stacks.

Do NOT DROP ANYTHING DOWN THE THROTTLE BODY BORES.

1. Test fit the stacks (without the bracket).

1. Kits use stock mounting screws

   1. If supplied. install supplied anti-rattle cushioning orings on the base of the stacks.

   2. Push out stock stack mount screws and apply that drop of mild thread locking compound.

   3. Assemble "stack and bracket assembly and screws" and install in airbox.

 

Push out stock stack mount screws

1. Finger tighten evenly.

2. Then torque to 6 ft lbs.

Double check that all 6 stack bracket bolts are tight. 6 ft lbs.

DOUBLE CHECK THAT YOU DID NOT DROP ANYTHING INTO THE THROTTLE BODY BORES.

If you put a rag or ?? to cover the bore of the throttle bodies - MAKE SURE YOU TAKE IT BACK OUT or the throttle WILL stick wide open.

Brian at Santa Rosa Powersports