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Yamaha fzr600
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Factory Pro's Supersport Carb Recal kit #1 Internet choice. |
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Factory Pro's Pro Shift Kit Much improved shifting! |
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Factory Pro's Ignition Advance Kit The only source in the world! |
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Factory Pro's Nickel plated emulsion tubes (needle jets) The BEST! |
| Finger Adjustable "Long Boy" extended Yamaha fuel screws | ||
Long Boy Fuel Screw Kit $89.95 pn: 3020m1 with 4 new extended screws, springs, washers and o-rings.  |
"Long Boy" Frustrated with trying to find an "almost 90 degree" screwdriver
to fine adjust your fuel screws for best idle and cruise? Make your life easier! Installation: Each screw assembly comes with:
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Factory Pro nickel plated FZR600 Emulsion Tubes (needle jets) |
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(yam: 3EN-14141-90-00) FZR600 89 to 99 $132.00 set of 4 NEW Shipment! |
Ok - The average fzr600 has accumulated a large
number of miles - and by now, most of them have carbs on them that have
really funky super-rich low rpm running "feature". Sound like yours?
99% of the time, on an fzr600 with over 10,000m
/ 15,000km on the speedo, the needle
jet orifice part of the "emulsion tube" probably looks like an egg. That will allow too much fuel to rise up into the bore of the carb and pretty much drown out the engine's power and cause sloppy rich, sloggy running.... (Wow - Sounds like yours?) Factory Pro analyzed and redesigned replacements with some notable, 20th century improvements - particularly NICKEL plating. A suggestion? Before you start trying to make your FZR run right or even attempt to properly jet, replace these parts. Just got back from the first ride with my new Factory
Pro emulsion tubes installed on my FZR600. Thanks for a
new motorcycle! It is unbelievable how smooth the bike is now,
no more hiccups from 2-4k rpm. I thought they were expensive at
first, but they are worth every penny. Very VERY easy install.
Thank you for making such a terrific product!
The "arrow" shows what is considered "bad" wear. |
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CRB-Y02-1.0 Standard drop-in carb kit $139.95 (use with the stock airbox) 2.
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Adds more low-end / midrange, if the proper main jet is selected, more top-end power. Easy to install and tune - no slide >Our most popular fzr600 kit. |
CRB-Y02-3.0
$139.95
(for when you have removed the airbox and are running pod filters) $xxx no filters |
Requires removal of stock airbox and running K&N or equivalent individual air filters. Otherwise, it is a drop-in kit. Low-end response is as good as, if not better than stock carb tuning. Works well - If you actually tune the fuel level (as is the case with the above "10 Series" and such), Low-end power is actually as good as or even better than with the stock airbox installed. Urban legend that "the lowend goes away" when you remove the airbox on the fzr's are utterly and absolutely, completely the result of poor choice in jet kit brand, and after that, tuning ability / desire / motivation - which pretty much comes down to setting float heights
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Float bowl gaskets |
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 reference: 3gm-14997-00-00 $32 for 4 |
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| RTR-YAM-1 $89.95 |
This Factory Pro FZR 600 kit advances the timing 5 degrees. With stock engines with stock compression ratios, there is more power everywhere. Part throttle power is better - helping corner exit speeds. Improved in-town drivability. Fills in the holes in the powerband. Every fzr600 that we do here gets one. |
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 (sample pic only - not fzr parts) SHFT-PRO-YAM-1 $139.95 inc Microbearing Detent Arm, F-Pro Shift Spring and clutch cover gasket. |
Almost EVERYBODY rebuilding an fzr600 installs this kit. Make shifting MUCH quicker and virtually eliminate missed shifts. This is exactly the same kit that Yamaha Racing has used. Huge shift action improvement. The kit requires the removal of a 27mm clutch nut - so, you'll need a: Deep 27mm socket and an Air or electric impact wrench If you insist on not having an impact wrench, you'll need / appreciate....... A friend to hold the rear brake on while you loosen the 27mm nut while the bike is in 3rd (ish) gear..... Every time I say - "I'm going to discontinue that kit." You guys, start calling and buying them again! OK- OK!! One more year! 2003!!! OK, OK, OK!!! 2005, too!! 2013!!:-) Marc User's comments
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 COV-Y01-RH-KT $179.95 |
COV-Y01-RH-KT RH Cover for the fzr400/600, NOT complete with steel "Skidz" cover insert. Absolutely the strongest cover you can buy - and has the highest strength / weight ratio available. Individual replacement outer cover available direct from Factory. $xxx.xxw Special! DISCONTINUED |
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| Hybrid Ceramic Wheel Bearings | ||
 $379.95 Hybrid Ceramic Bearing set special (Includes the hard to find sprocket carrier bearing) reg $442.10 6 bearing kit 2 front and 3 rear wheel and 1 sprocket carrier bearing set pn: BE-HYCER-Y02/fzr600 |
Hybrid Ceramic Wheel Bearings SIX bearing set In theory, these bearings should: Increase mileage slightly decrease rolling resistance noticeably coast farther improve top speed a bit and acceleration a little Tough steel races and almost friction free ceramic balls. Bearings have rubber seals that are easy to remove if desired. marc@factorypro.com |
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| ACM Kit Alternator Removal Kit $429.95 |
Removes 3.5 lb. alternator
rotor (NO charging system) and replaces it with a total loss 8oz. trigger
rotor, similar to Yamaha Race Kit unit. Not for street use. Fits FZR400,
89-90, FZR600(US), 89-99. NA |
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 TL-float height gauge $59.95 2. |
The only way to accurately measure float heights. Works on nearly every carburetor. | |
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Yamaha factory manual recommended "measure the fuel level" method of
setting float heights got you down? Hmmm....setting them to so specified fuel level doesn't mean that
you are actually giving the bike what it wants. It just means you are
doing a good job of setting the fuel levels equally. We can get elegant later - Right, now, let's rough them in - If the floats are in reasonable shape, the float height and the fuel level measurements will be pretty damn close for tuning purposes. Example: All fuel levels set at .5mm above the fuel level line, and it's too
rich at low rpms isn't even close to how much better the bike would
be if you set the floats at 25mm (even if they are a silly 1/4mm different,
carb to carb...) |
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| float height method | aprox. equivalent FUEL LEVEL | fuel delivery |
| 22mm | +4.0mm above fuel level line | 22mm RICHER at low rpm |
| 23mm | +2.5mm above fuel level line | 23mm |
| 24mm | +1.0mm above fuel level line | 24mm |
| 25mm | -0.50mm below fuel level line | 25mm |
| 25.5mm | -1.25mm below fuel level line | 25.5mm LEANER at low rpm |
Now.... I listed out RICHER and LEANER in those natural hot and cold colors for you - BUT!!! That only means that the carburetion will get richer or leaner, especially at low rpm and cruise - It NOT to say that the carburetion WILL BE too rich or too lean FOR YOUR bike if you set it to 22mm or 25mm... If the bike is too rich at low rpm, check to see what the floats
are set at - if it's too rich and they are set at 23mm, change them
to 24mm and try that. If that's better, but, not enough, try 25mm. Generally, I would say that if you set the floats at 25mm, and it's
still sloppy rich at low rpm and cruise, especially when it's hot -
Replace the emulsion tubes (needle jets). Marc |
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Below is a Reprint with additions
and corrections
(some SR links will become nonfunctional as SR changes
their site periodically)
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| This Old Bike:
Fizzy Pop Performance Upgrades for Yamaha's FZR600
By Andrew Trevitt It seems like just yesterday that our man Kento won the Willow Springs ARRA championship on an FZR600, while geek-boy Trevitt was trying his hand at endurance racing on an FZR, too. Really though, both editors are showing their gray hairs, and it was way back in 1989 that the little Yamaha was first introduced. We borrowed this 1996 sample from Erica Polites, who brightened up the Primedia dungeon for a short time before moving on to work at Vance & Hines. Erica's bike was in desperate need of a little TLC, and well, who can resist a little tweaking here and there?
Correction: The needle jets (commonly called "emulsion tubes") were new Factory Pro design, using modern, updated concepts, not Yamaha supplied parts - they retail for about $100 set. They are not Factory Pro HDJ style, but, like the HDJ, feature a tougher, plated surface, rather than the softer brass as the originals and should last at least as long as the original needle jets, even with normal carb body slide guide wear. )
While we didn't update the suspension on the FZR, there are many options available in that department, as the FZR has a long racing history. Up front, the fork tubes were flushed and filled with thicker oil to stiffen the front end a bit, but otherwise we left well enough alone. The next step would be a replacement shock and stiffer fork springs along with Race-Tech's cartridge emulators. Going further, many FZR owners have replaced the stock swingarm with an FZR400 unit (lighter and stronger) and added a fork brace up front. Once the little FZR's makeover was complete, the engine ran noticeably smoother and crisper than previously. It feels much more responsive, and pulls harder in the midrange. The Vance & Hines exhaust is nice and quiet when puttering about town, only getting progressively louder the more revs are used. Our SuperFlow dyno is offline temporarily, but we'll have a chart showing pre- and post-modification traces in the next installment of This Old Bike. The DP brake pads are a huge improvement, and up front the new pads offer the usual sintered-pad characteristics of good progressivity and feel, along with excellent stopping power. The front brakes felt quite grabby at first, but surprisingly it turned out to be caused by the lever's pivot, which was dry and binding. A quick clean and a spot of grease made a big difference there. Out back, the DP standard rear pads were initially grabby, but now broken in provide good feel and feedback. Even with the thicker front fork oil, the front end still dives under braking more than we'd like. Rider's weighing more than about 150 pounds will most likely need stiffer springs along with 20-weight fluid instead of the 15/20-weight mix we used. Still, for almost 16,000 miles of use, the FZR's fork and stock shock work surprisingly well. It didn't take much to have the Yamaha looking and performing better than new, and even though the FZR600 is three generations old now, it's still a fun, sporting package. According to the Blue Book (www.kbb.com), used FZR600's range from $2300 (1989 model) to $4620 (1999 model). Addition:
When we finished Erica Polites' Yamaha FZR600 for last issue's This Old Bike, our dyno was temporarily unavailable and we couldn't include a chart with the story. Plus, we had some jetting woes to sort out, as the bike was running rich with even stock jetting. The final dyno run shows a peak of 75 horsepower, good for a California-spec FZR, and way better than what we saw before the modifications. Needless to say, Erica is happy with her transformed FZR. Addition:
The VHR SS2r STREET exhaust is about as restrictive as the stock muffler,
as far as the carburetor is concerned - Got an old bike? We're looking for older sportbikes in the Los Angeles area to feature in This Old Bike. If you have a mechanically sound bike you feel would be a good candidate, send a picture and details to Sport Rider, Attn: This Old Bike, 6420 Wilshire Blvd., Los Angeles CA 90048-5515 or e-mail srweb@primedia.com. This article originally appeared in the August 2002 issue of Sport Rider. |
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Bike pics from owners! |
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Les Gaskell's UK model 89 FZR600, before |
 After 05/2005 |
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 Steve Voss's Rebuild Project Sept 2013 Before |
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 VeNoM Netherlans, before |
 VeNoM after (Sept 2005) |
Marc: Last spring I built the 1989 FZR 600 in the attached photos for track days and vintage endurance events. I fitted Factory Pro emulsion tubes, carb tuning kit, ignition advance keyway, shift kit, dumped the airbox and fitted individual filters. I also fitted a Penske/Ohlins shock, fork emulators, 520 chain/sprocket conversion kit and sintered front brake pads. I was particularly pleased with your products they worked 100%. The bike won its class in its first endurance race at Mosport (Canada) Later one of my younger friends raced it a short circuit event and he finished second on his first ride on the bike. Next year the bike will have a full fairing. The only problem experienced was some clutch slip. I am having the steel clutch plates bead blasted as in the past this has helped with similar problems. I also wondered if you know of or could recommend any stiffer clutch springs for the bike? Peter Sheppard
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