Suzuki gsxr 1000, 01-03
The firstest and bestest 21st century's best sportbike AND Formula Extreme WEAPON!
With roughly 8-10
more than the 98-01 R1, even without pressurizing the airbox, (125 to
126 unpressurized True hp for the gsxr1000 (add ~8-10 for top gear road
power) vs. 115 to 117 True HP for a
stock R1 vs.112
to 113 unpressurized True HP for a stock
(add ~8-10 for top gear road power) the
gsxr1000 is the True HP King of Sportbikes (at least in 01 when I wrote
All HP figures are recorded on the
EC997 Series dynamometers
Billet SUPERFLARE Stacks
Even more upper midrange power
Ignition Advance Kit
100% reliable advance method..
GSXR Shift STAR Kit
wicked good shifting!
Billet Engine Covers with Integrated Sliders
2x the protection.
The TEKA line of fuel injection
products features the
As compared to a power commander, Major features are virtually 100% reliability, as the reliability is the same as the stock ECU and there is no permanently mounted add-on box to fail and changes take 30 seconds and NO laptop.
Realtime tuning, no maps to lose, no problems with RF interference, no computer required to tune, no instant 1% to 2% hp loss w/ zero map, Easy to tune at the track on the pit wall, takes only about 20 seconds to make changes, easy to change during a 600 mile service, easy to tune for those new pipes your parts dept. just sold, no waiting in line for someone to non-optimally "tune to an a/f ratio", fits in your back pocket, digital accuracy, and do one, a 100 or a 1000 bikes.
Team Vesrah, Suzuki
Cup World Champion Robert Jensen, Hooters Racing and many more have
and use the TEKA SFi.
In a championship race, even one power commander failure can mean winning the overall and finishing second in a years worth of work -
MMT Power Switch
After tuning with
a Teka SFI 2,
MMT plugs right in to the bikes tuning port (same as the SFI).
If tuning with the
SFI 2 / MMT combination:
If tuning with the MMT only (without custom SFI
If you first install an MMT and decide the have
it custom tuned with the SFI 2, no problem.
Then, you still have the ability to "trim" map for conditions with the Power Select Switch - and you even have, by setting it at "0", to recheck how the "zero" map was in comparison to your "SFI Tuned Map".
EZ install - all stock connectors, no splicing.
(note: pic is from R&D session and not actual final lengths)
pn: VEL-S51-6060 - $389.95
Billet GSXR 1000 SUPERFLARE Stacks
Stacks and BMC RACE filter - Add up to +3.5
PEAK True HP and +5 at 7k and +6 at 10k True HP in 30
The Factory Pro stacks on the 1000 benefit greatly from the BMC Race filter. While the BMC RACE filter will add a bit of power with stock stacks, the combination of the FP stacks AND the filter gives a benefit greater than the sum to the 2 individual parts.
All HP figures are
recorded on the
EC997 Series dynamometers
- The dynos that read the same - dyno to dyno.
Tech notes on modified gsxr1000 engines:
Gains on modified 1000
Suzuki engines with Yoshimura or similar cams seem to develop more of
an improvement than expected. I've seen as much as 6 to 8 True hp (that's
power measured under load on an EC997 dyne system and not on
a dealership level dynojet dyno).
You may get even better results if the bike is retuned, using the Best Power method. For best tuning results, Do NOT tune to an a/f ratio. - A/F Ratio tuning is a low level dealership level procedure and never results in optimal results.
Stack Development Process
The Factory Pro Stacks have a smooth,
constantly increasing divergent angle and the flare radius is the optimal
complimentary dimension that gives the best "engine tested" airflow
AND the best intake tract pressure wave propagation rate AND wave recovery
You can see the difference in a "flow
bench" developed stack and our "engine" developed stack - Our "engine"
stack will be significantly better in the powerband and will rev higher
with power - without losing power at low rpm or part throttle.
There are several other factors involved in v stack design that are even further past the wave and radius relationships and we are working on these, too. Thanks, Marc
A Factory Pro Tuner's kit, consisting
of a range of stack lengths from 15 to 60mm, in 10mm increments, to
allow the best possible tuning for modified engines, consisting of a
range of sizes of stacks is available exclusively to
Factory Pro Dyno
using EC997 dynos.
I shopped for dynos
for over 2 years. I have tuned on all of them, dynojet, Superflow
|Hybrid Ceramic Wheel Bearings|
2 bearing kit
front wheel only
Hybrid Ceramic Wheel Bearings
2 front wheel bearings
Tough 52100 steel races, rubber seals and lightweight, almost friction free, silicon nitride ceramic balls.
Bearings are pregreased and ready to use.
Bearings have rubber seals that are easy to remove if desired.
Daniel Garza wrote:
DAM!!!!! my hats off to the people who did the R&D on the star! Man it shifts awesome. Billy said my stock piece was already loose so it worked out great. he says hi back at you. anyways great product .
thanx - danny
For the quickest shifting -
If using a quickshifter, you MUST shorten shift kill duration to about 40-45 ms.
out of stock
out of stock
Pro Ignition Advance Plate
Power Commander Ignition Module SCALING Notes
(as of 2018)
In my experience, the Power Commander
Ignition module "says" +/- "10", but it really only seems to change
the ignition timing about +/-2-3 degrees (as of at least 09/19). This was backed up by a DJ importer's experience.
real load dyno, under realistic load, multiple DJ Ignition Modules on 600's
and 1000's show that DJ +10 to DJ -10 "DJ degrees" equals around a 1%
to 2% HP spread.
You can't change the ignition timing 20 degrees
and only affect the power by a couple percent - That's an obvious fact.
Now - I'm still perplexed about the guy who
posted that he gained 7 HP on his dynojet dyno with a "+5" setting on his DJ Ign
Module!. 5 DJ degrees / about
1 REAL degree = 5 hp? and also perplexed about the ignition map that I got from
a DJ sponsored Race team that showed +1 and +2 and -1's in their
"official" map! Lessee? They changed the ignition timing a miniscule
real .2 degree and they could see that hp change?
A significant ignition timing change, that power can be measured would MAYBE be a real 1 degree - but you can only measure the HP change if the fuel mixture is absolutely PERFECT for Best power (NOT to misleading dealership level "AFR tuning") already -
Normally, a REAL 2 degrees ignition timing change will change the power (on a Perfectly fueled engine) by about 1%.
(example 100 True HP > 101 True HP if a "good direction change" OR 99 True HP if it was "the wrong 2 deg direction change").
"5 Dynojet degrees = about 2 Real degrees"
So - what does that tell you?
Best regards - Marc
For Race or Street
use. Absolutely the strongest covers you can buy. Highest strength /
weight ratio available! Maximum protection at under 1 pound of additional
I ran Factory Pro engine covers on my rookie season in 2005 as a Novice rider with the CMRA. As you know us rookies tend to crash a bit more than others. I'm sure I'm not the first to say the covers and sliders ROCK! On several lowsides throughout the season the bike slid on the sliders and never once tumbled. I contribute this to the position on the slider on the bike. Friends with conventional sliders found the slider digging in and flipping the bike causing much damage. Needless to say, my season ended in one Championship and two 3rd places. CMRA seen fit to bump me to expert in 2006. I purchased two brand new GSXR's and have already installed Factory Pro covers on the one through RaceworX in Dallas. Unfortunately I had the chance once again on December 20th at MSR Houston to test them out. Once again they performed great!!!! The bike slid on the slider. Beside a few scrapes on the plastic the bike was not damaged.
With this said I feel like I could represent your product with much confidence! If you offer a support program I would be glad to participate. As I said, I have already purchased a set for the Superbike. I'm only in need of a left side stator cover for the 06 GSXR 1000. Attached is a copy of my resume along with a rendering on the new paint scheme for the 2006 season.
I feel the your product has saved me a ton of $$$$ in crash repairs over the past season.
CMRA #496 Expert
The FI-BMC-23709R BMC Race will add more power than any other similar "stock replacement filter" OR the BMC STREET filter, and it absolutely requires remapping with Teka Suzuki FI Mapper . On the 4 Gas EC997, along with the BMC Race filter with Teka SFI mapping, improved the power by a full 5 True HP! (yes, I was surprised, too.)
Best results with a pc or yosh ems was ~1-2 less than the TEKA SFI tool.
RTR-SUZ-37-04 Ignition Advance Plate: Adding this +4 plate (the same plate as what generally works best on the gsxr600 and the alternate for the gsxr750), will generally perk up the mighty 1000 to the tune of 2-3 more True HP when measured under full load (that's the proper way to measure real world power) - but only if the stock ECU is remapped with the TEKA SFI tool. Part throttle power (power out of a corner) is also better. If one installs a pc or ems and electronically adds +4, the ignition "scatter" problems often negate the benefit of the more proper timing.
Suzuki managed to pretty much copy our HD spring and Bearinged Detent Arm and then proceeded to make the bike shift poorly, with popping out of second gear on the track being the most obvious problem.
(That is different from the stock shift detent star loosening up.....which creeps up on 1000's and 750's. If yours starts randomly missing shifts, it possible that the stock detent "star" mounting bolt has loosened up and needs to be tightened - Heck! What a perfect time to replace the stock "star" with our copyrighted S-Call 415 883-5620
ask for Marc
Daniel Garza wrote:
DAM!!!!! my hats off to the people who did the R&D on the star man it shifts awesome. Billy said my stock piece was already loose so it worked out great. he says hi back at you. anyways great productthanxdanny
IS THERE A SPEED LIMITER?????
There isn't a "speed limiter" (just like we said when the Hayabusa came out).
The 6th gear map has the timing retarded over the last 500 or so rpm to trim the top end a bit.
Drag racers have reported that performance was decreased when the 5th gear/ECU devices are used. They attributed it to difficulty in launching, but, there's another reason -
HP with RACE filter
only with TEKA SFI
Designed by the same Italian craftsmen that developed Ferrari's
F1 Air Filters - this filter filters well, flows more air and lets the
engine make about the same power than the stock air filter.
01 gsxr600 factory kit ECU is too lean for the 750, too.
And the ignition curve is ALL wrong for the 750. As IF the 750 needed to rev to 14,500!
That's even if we tweaked the 600 box to the max...... with the TEKA SFI......
Yes, we do try goofy stuff!
June 1, 2001
HP limited classes.....
Urban lore is that a gsxr1000 will make ~2 more hp if the clutch safety switch is closed. What some Suzuki tuners do is swap the clutch safety switch to the front brake side and set it "contact" early so it "connects" with very little lever travel.
When the rider needs the extra 2 hp, he pulls in the front brake lever just a little bit, just so the switch is closed and power appears on the track. I suppose it could happen for some reason.... Dunno.
When the bike is being tested for "maximum" power after the race, the dyno operator (perhaps a sponsor) doesn't pull in the lever and the extra hp just isn't there!
Or - they just "think" it's better......
Maybe it's urban legend......??????
April 20, 2001
Just a note - 01 gsxr600 factory kit ECU is too lean for the 1000. As IF the 1000 needed to rev to 14,500! Maybe if we tweaked the 600 box internally to full rich with Teka Suzuki FI Adjuster and stacked a Teka FI Unit on, too......
Yes, we do try goofy stuff!
April 18, 2001
BMC RACE filter:
Installed filter and adjusted FI with Teka FI Mapper.
5 True HP improvement.
Call Factory Pro (800 869-0497 / (415) 883-5620
to order filter and place order for Teka FI Mapper Tool.
Ignition Advance Plate, Installation, gsxr600, 97-05 and gsxr750, 96-05 installation and pictures
pn: RTR-SUZ-37-XX - ignition mount
plate install and tech
gsxr600 99-05 (06-07 is same part, but it's mounted in the RH engine cover)
gsxr750 98-05 (06-07 is same part, but it's mounted in the RH engine cover)
5mm allen wrench
#2 philips screwdriver
medium flatbladed screwdriver
Razor blade or Exacto knife
A look in.
Location of ignition trigger mounting plate on:
gsxr600, 97-01 (and similar)
1. Remove the outer "palm sized" small starter cover (already removed).
2. Remove the inner, larger starter clutch cover (already removed). Remember, there is a screw in the upper left of the inner cover that is not accessible until the small, outer cover is removed. You will probably reuse the gasket
3. Remove the starter clutch bolt with a 14mm air wrench (that's the easiest and quickest way).
4. Remove the original ignition plate from the engine cases with a #2 Phillips screwdriver. (it's under the starter clutch gear)
|5. With a flatbladed screwdriver, remove
the ignition trigger coil from the original mounting plate and reinstall
it onto the new Factory Pro ignition plate.
Be careful NOT to stab yourself with the screwdriver!
The gold center core plate (at
B, down arrow) of the coil assembly MUST extent
"proud" of the surrounding off-white epoxy area when installed and tightened.
There is a small amount of play to adjust with, and it
outwards, towards the ignition rotor, usually ~.005" to .010".
(In other words, a real little bit)
6. After installing the trigger coil to the ignition plate, temporarily reinstall the starter clutch and bolt and rotate the engine so that rotor projection at B, up arrow is aligned with the trigger coil (so you can measure the trigger coil clearance).
7. Install A-1phillips screw, snug. Install A-2 Phillips screw and snug down.
8. Measure the clearance at B. It should be .015"
to .020". Adjust by loosening A-1 and A-2
and pushing the plate towards the rotor. Tighten screws when done.
2. So - you cracked the magnet because you didn't line up the
|9. Check the tightness of the
coil plate screws, reinstall the ignition plate. Use a bit of light
strength thread locking compound on the screws if you want, for a good
10. Reinstall the starter clutch and mounting bolt. BE SURE to line up the indexing marks on the crankshaft end and the starter clutch or the TDC marks will be wrong and that could cause big problems if using the TDC marks to adjust the valves later.....
11. Reinstall the covers (don't forget the screw under the small cover). Replace or reseal gaskets as necessary.
12. You should not have any parts left over, except for the old ignition plate.
True Rear Wheel HP measurement on the EC997!
EFI and Carb Tuning - Most all FI and carb tuning
by Wheelsmith Racing
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The extension of the laboratory
for engines of the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology was completed
in about 1935. Its architect was Rudolf Otto Salvisberg (1882-1940).
He had a successful career in Berlin but returned to Switzerland after
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Edited to the tunes of Chemical Residue by Herbie Hancock.