Suzuki gsxr 1000, 01-03
Factory Pro Series "S51"

 The firstest and bestest 21st century's best sportbike AND  Formula Extreme WEAPON!

With roughly 8-10 True HP more than the 98-01 R1, even without pressurizing the airbox, (125 to 126 unpressurized True hp for the gsxr1000 (add ~8-10 for top gear road power) vs. 115 to 117 True HP for a stock R1 vs.112 to 113 unpressurized True HP for a stock '01 zx9r  (add ~8-10 for top gear road power) the gsxr1000 is the True HP King of Sportbikes (at least in 01 when I wrote this!)
It was the power of the Suz vs. the handling of the R1 all year long!

All HP figures are recorded on the EC997 Series dynamometers
The dynos that read the same - dyno to dyno.
FUSA POWER!!!

Factory Pro's
Teka SFI
Suzuki FI programming tool

Fuel Injection Tuning, Teka SFI (Suzuki Fuel Injection Tool)

The TEKA line of fuel injection products features the
Teka SFI.

$695
base unit - accessories extra

Teka SFI.
It's the Factory pro designed tool specifically designed to reprogram the stock Suzuki ECU / computer.

As compared to a power commander, Major features are virtually 100% reliability, as the reliability is the same as the stock ECU and there is no permanently mounted add-on box to fail and changes take 30 seconds and NO laptop.

Realtime tuning, no maps to lose, no problems with RF interference, no computer required to tune, no instant 1% to 2% hp loss w/ zero map, Easy to tune at the track on the pit wall, takes only about 20 seconds to make changes, easy to change during a 600 mile service, easy to tune for those new pipes your parts dept. just sold, no waiting in line for someone to non-optimally "tune to an a/f ratio", fits in your back pocket, digital accuracy, and do one, a 100 or a 1000 bikes.

Team Vesrah, Suzuki Cup World Champion Robert Jensen, Hooters Racing and many more have and use the TEKA SFi.
In fact, 5 WERA National Championships and one World Championship were won using the TEKA SFi.

In a championship race, even one power commander failure can mean winning the overall and finishing second in a years worth of work - 

Tiny!
Teka MMT Module
EZ tune MMT (adj. memory module) Power Tube

1 MMT module + shipping

1 MM module + domestic USA shipping $243.95 1 MM module + International shipping $261.95

Additional notes for seller

Billet Velocity Stacks, Factory Pro Design

V Stack Development Process
(by Marc Salvisberg)
These velocity stacks were originally designed using flow bench test data and then, redesigned ON the bike.
A flow bench, regardless of what many people assume, is only a measurement of airflow at a relatively slow air velocity AND only in a simplistic "steady state", constant flow rate. Steady State works great on a dyno for load (as it duplicates wind loading at speed), but Steady State air velocity on a flow bench isn't the optimal testing state for duplicating the "in / out" and "stop / go" air flow conditions of an engine. That's where a "flow bench developed" stack wanders away from optimum (except on another flow bench)
That's why you can have 2 ported cylinder heads and the one that flows "less", according to a flow bench, that makes better power.
I left out a LOT of other reasons as to why "flow bench" stacks don't work as well as "engine developed" stacks, but, essentially, the low velocity and slow air speed rates are right in there as far as plausible reasons go.

The Factory Pro Stacks have a smooth, constantly increasing divergent angle and the flare radius is the optimal complimentary dimension that gives the best "engine tested" airflow AND the best intake tract pressure wave propagation rate AND wave recovery rates.
The wave properties of a velocity stack are what makes the bike stronger when it's "on the pipe" and "airflow" is what make power at very high rpms.
They are mutually antagonistic...... (and hence the balance of dimensions of a properly designed v stack)

You can see the difference in a "flow bench" developed stack and our "engine" developed stack - Our "engine" stack will be significantly better in the powerband and will rev higher with power - without losing power at low rpm or part throttle.
The flow bench developed stack will have a very large radius, and will flow more on a flow bench, but will not be as effective on the engine at mid to higher rpms, where the large radius severely damages wave propagation and recovery strength.  Less wave efficiency = less power on the powerband.

There are several other factors involved in v stack design that are even further past the wave and radius relationships and we are working on these, too. Thanks, Marc

A Factory Pro Tuner's kit, consisting of a range of stack lengths from 15 to 60mm, in 10mm increments, to allow the best possible tuning for modified engines, consisting of a range of sizes of stacks is available exclusively to Factory Pro Dyno Centers using EC997 dynos.
Factory Pro
 If you look at 2004 WERA Suzuki Cup Finals and The Suzuki World Cup Finals - you might notice that every cup winner either has a Factory Pro EC997 dyno or has used one!!! (and third place didn't....)

Testimonials

hi marc,
just like to say thanks, one of my customers dropped up his gsxr1000k4 today to have his v stacks installed that he purchased from you last week. just finished running his bike on dyno and well what can i say you guys sure make great products, the difference was really credible  and another happy customer for both of us.
regards,
danny  -  santry motorcycles
May 15, 2005
 

Factory Pro's famous Shift STAR kits

Factory Pro
Shift STAR

Evo Shift STAR Kit

The "Paddle Shifter" for your foot -
The Suzuki's (and ZX10's, zx6's, cbr600rr's, and the Yamaha's) need help in shifting.
Specifically, the late style gsxr shift action is very flat feeling and gives very little tactile feedback as to confidence that it's really in gear or not. I hate it when you shift and you can hear the shift mechanism sort of  lazily "kathwaka" into it's "maybe" final gear location. I like a confident, proper "snick"!
They had it so close to "almost good"  in 99 - I'm not sure why they changed it for the "non-better".... Oh well - After redesigning and testing and redesigning and testing, and redesigning and testing...... I now see how easy it is to get it wrong, though.
We have a new detent "star" with a copyrighted profile (yep, the "science failed, so, it's artwork - so it's copyrighted) that includes a peculiar combination of compound arcs and radii that produces a shift action that makes it almost impossible to miss a shift ("almost" is the key word here!), especially 2nd gear in upshifts and all the downshifts - At least, if you miss 2nd, now, you will be REALLY surprised - cause it's now such a rare occurrence.
Downshifting confidence is 100% easier and better - just as important as not missing upshifts.

1. New manufacture:
Beautifully machined on 8 Axis CNC machinery, machined from solid Cro Mo steel bar stock, heat treated, a complex radii, beautiful part.

$139.95 star only

"Slightly" stronger F-Pro shift spring for the above Shift Star.

pn: Z95-S69-0201/0501

$49.95

For the quickest shifting -

If using a quickshifter, you MUST shorten shift kill duration to about 40-45 ms.

Ignition Advance Plate kit

RTR-SUZ-37-04  $89.95

out of stock

out of stock

Factory Pro Ignition Advance Plate

Adding this +4 plate (the same plate as what generally works best on the gsxr600 and the alternate for the gsxr750), will generally perk up the mighty 1000 to the tune of 2-3 more True HP when measured under full load (that's the proper way to measure real world power)  - but only if the stock ECU is remapped with the TEKA SFI tool. Part throttle power (power out of a corner) is also better. If one installs a pc or ems and electronically adds +4, the ignition "scatter" problems often negate the benefit of the more proper timing.

,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Power Commander Ignition Module SCALING Notes

(as of 2018)

In my experience, the Power Commander Ignition module "says" +/- "10", but it really only seems to change the ignition timing about +/-2-3 degrees (as of at least 09/19).  This was backed up by a DJ importer's experience.
According to a customer, dj told him  that ignition timing, doesn't affect power very much.
That's just wrong.
Factory Pro has over 30 years of research and development in high accuracy tuning in general and 20 years in producing Ignition Advancers (which REALLY DO change the ignition timing!)  and we've been producing dynamometers that read to .1 and .2 HP increments.

Testing on real load dyno, under realistic load, multiple DJ Ignition Modules on 600's and 1000's show that DJ +10  to DJ -10 "DJ degrees" equals around a 1% to 2% HP spread.
How could you change ignition timing a supposed "TWENTY DEGREES" and only affect the HP by 1% to 2%????

You can't change the ignition timing 20 degrees and only affect the power by a couple percent -  That's an obvious fact.
If you had "Best Power" ignition timing set and you retard or advance the timing a REAL 10 degrees, the bike world hardly run, losing around 10% - 20% True HP  if you retarded it.
if you advanced it a real 10 degrees, you'd lose a bunch of power, too and also, likely, give it fits of detonation.

Now - I'm still perplexed about the guy who posted that he gained 7 HP on his dynojet dyno with a "+5" setting on his DJ Ign Module!.   5 DJ degrees /  about 1 REAL degree = 5 hp? and also perplexed about the ignition map that I got from a DJ sponsored Race team that showed +1 and +2 and -1's in their "official"  map! Lessee? They changed the ignition timing a miniscule  real .2 degree and they could see that hp change?
The 06 R6 that we were working on? It actually wanted more than 10 "dynojet degrees" in quite a few every part throttle positions for Best Power settings and all of the full throttle settings ended up at +5 to +10 "dynojet degrees". Compare that to the zero settings at full throttle that were supplied and the +1, +2 an +3 "dj degree" settings that were supplied.

A significant ignition timing change, that power can be measured would MAYBE be a real 1 degree - but you can only measure the HP change if the fuel mixture is absolutely PERFECT for Best power (NOT to misleading dealership level "AFR tuning") already -

 Normally, a REAL 2 degrees ignition timing change will change the power (on a Perfectly fueled engine) by about 1%.

(example 100 True HP > 101 True HP if a "good direction change" OR 99 True HP if it was "the wrong 2 deg direction change").

When tuning on an EC997 dyno, (which has the capability of measuring .1 to .2 HP changes), essentially, there are only a couple of DJ Ign Module settings:

Zero
+5 Dynojet degrees or
+10 Dynojet degrees
and maybe "7" if "5" and "10" make the same power

"5 Dynojet degrees = about 2 Real degrees"

So - what does that tell you?
That you need to do testing on a high quality dyne system.
Then, you too, can learn all these "unpopular" facts!
We helped Jordan Racing develop into the top ranked AMA team they are. 

Best regards - Marc
 

Billet Engine Covers with Integrated Sliders

 

01-03  COV-SUZ-51-LH-KT   $279.95
(With patented slider)

RIGHT SIDE COVER
all 01-06  COV-S51-RH-KT     $99.95
(Inc patented Slider!)

01-06 models  -  RH in stock

Billet Engine Cover page

For Race or Street use. Absolutely the strongest covers you can buy. Highest strength / weight ratio available! Maximum protection at under 1 pound of additional weight!
More cover thickness than stock on both RH and LH side covers.

LH side - 1"  slotted slider for fairing clearence.
RH side - has std. short slider that fits behind the fairing.

If you want to cut a hole in the LH fairing, order the optional "long" slider
Includes: Covers and replacement stainless steel allen screws.

Tech:
Allen screws supplied: 8 x 25mm for our thinner cover (more corner clearance) and 3 x 25mm for the alternator stator mounting. If you use the stock 30mm stator screws, the stator will knock when the engine warms up - as the 30mm screws bottom before the stator is tight.
 

Location of ignition trigger mounting plate on:

gsxr600, 97-01 (and similar)
gsxr750, 96-01 (and similar)
gsxr1000, 01(and similar)

1. Remove the outer "palm sized" small starter cover   (already removed).

2. Remove the inner, larger starter clutch cover (already removed). Remember, there is a screw in the upper left of the inner cover that is not accessible until the small, outer cover is removed. You will probably reuse the gasket

3. Remove the starter clutch bolt with a 14mm air wrench (that's the easiest and quickest way).

4. Remove the original ignition plate from the engine cases with a #2 Phillips screwdriver. (it's under the starter clutch gear)

Note: The gold center core plate (at B, down arrow) of the coil assembly MUST extent "proud" of the surrounding off-white epoxy area when installed and tightened. There is a small amount of play to adjust with, and it must project outwards, towards the ignition rotor, usually ~.005" to .010".  (In other words, a real little bit)
If the center core is below the off-white surrounding area, the voltage produced will detrimentally affect the ignition system and make the engine difficult or impossible to start.

6. After installing the trigger coil to the ignition plate, temporarily reinstall the starter clutch and bolt and rotate the engine so that rotor projection at B, up arrow is aligned with the trigger coil (so you can measure the trigger coil clearance).

7. Install A-1phillips screw, snug. Install  A-2 Phillips screw and snug down.

8. Measure the clearance at B. It should be .015" to .020". Adjust by loosening A-1 and A-2 and pushing the plate towards the rotor. Tighten screws when done.
Notes:
1.   .040" pickup coil to ignition rotor clearance will make the engine difficult or impossible to start.

2.  So - you cracked the magnet because you didn't line up the locating hole......
     It's OK - just put the 2 pieces together and retighten the 2 flat bladed screws. Lucky you!

Question: If .040" clearance will make the engine difficult to start, and .020 starts well, is .010" better? Haven't had time to test that, yet...

10. Reinstall the starter clutch and mounting bolt. BE SURE to line up the indexing marks on the crankshaft end and the starter clutch or the TDC marks will be wrong and that could cause big problems if using the TDC marks to adjust the valves later.....

11. Reinstall the covers (don't forget the screw under the small cover). Replace or reseal gaskets as necessary.

12. You should not have any parts left over, except for the old ignition plate.