After tuning with a Teka SFI 2,
you can use this optional module to fine fine adjust fueling with a screwdriver adjustable rotary switch.

MMT plugs right in to the bikes tuning port (same as the SFI).

If tuning with the SFI 2 / MMT combination:
The MMT is plugged into the bike, the SFI 2 is plugged into the MMT and all tuning settings from the SFI 2 are stored in the MMT and automatically transferred to the bike.
After SFI tuning, the SFI is removed and the MMT is left on the bike.
Then, for any fine tuning or adjusting after you maybe change air filters or similar or high altitude or a lot of freeway riding, you can just tweak the MMT Power Select Switch to a different number.
"5" = "as tuned with the SFI 2
"6" to "9" = incrementally richer
"4" to "1" = incrementally richer
"0" = "All zero ECU settings

If tuning with the MMT only (without custom SFI tuning):
If just installing an MMT without SFI custom  retuning, just installing the MMT will allow you to adjust, globally, incrementally richer or leaner with the Power Select rotary switch.

If you first install an MMT and decide the have it custom tuned with the SFI 2,  no problem.
Just plug the SFI 2 into the MMT's Tuning port and tune that perfect map.

Then, you still have the ability to "trim" map for conditions with the Power Select Switch - and you even have, by setting it at "0", to recheck how the "zero" map was in comparison to your "SFI Tuned Map". 

EZ install - all stock connectors, no splicing.
  

Velocity Stacks, Induction System

Billet GSXR 1000 SUPERFLARE Stacks

Stacks and BMC RACE filter - Add up to +1 to +2 PEAK True HP and +5 at 7k and +6 at 10k True HP in 30 minutes.

We did it without fuel mapping.

The Factory Pro stacks on the 1000 benefit  from the BMC Race filter. While the BMC RACE filter will add a bit of power with stock stacks, the combination of the FP stacks AND the filter gives a benefit greater than the sum to the 2 individual parts.

All HP figures are recorded on the EC997 Series dynamometers - The dynos that read the same - dyno to dyno.

V Stack Development Process
(by Marc Salvisberg)
These velocity stacks were originally designed using flow bench test data and then, redesigned ON the bike.
A flow bench, regardless of what many people assume, is only a measurement of airflow at a relatively slow air velocity AND only in a simplistic "steady state", constant flow rate. Steady State works great on a dyno for load (as it duplicates wind loading at speed), but Steady State air velocity on a flow bench isn't the optimal testing state for duplicating the "in / out" and "stop / go" air flow conditions of an engine. That's where a "flow bench developed" stack wanders away from optimum (except on another flow bench)
That's why you can have 2 ported cylinder heads and the one that flows "less", according to a flow bench, that makes better power.
I left out a LOT of other reasons as to why "flow bench" stacks don't work as well as "engine developed" stacks, but, essentially, the low velocity and slow air speed rates are right in there as far as plausible reasons go.

The Factory Pro Stacks have a smooth, constantly increasing divergent angle and the flare radius is the optimal complimentary dimension that gives the best "engine tested" airflow AND the best intake tract pressure wave propagation rate AND wave recovery rates.
The wave properties of a velocity stack are what makes the bike stronger when it's "on the pipe" and "airflow" is what make power at very high rpms.
They are mutually antagonistic...... (and hence the balance of dimensions of a properly designed v stack)

You can see the difference in a "flow bench" developed stack and our "engine" developed stack - Our "engine" stack will be significantly better in the powerband and will rev higher with power - without losing power at low rpm or part throttle.
The flow bench developed stack will have a very large radius, and will flow more on a flow bench, but will not be as effective on the engine at mid to higher rpms, where the large radius severely damages wave propagation and recovery strength.  Less wave efficiency = less power on the powerband.

There are several other factors involved in v stack design that are even further past the wave and radius relationships and we are working on these, too. Thanks, Marc

A Factory Pro Tuner's kit, consisting of a range of stack lengths from 15 to 60mm, in 10mm increments, to allow the best possible tuning for modified engines, consisting of a range of sizes of stacks is available exclusively to Factory Pro Dyno Centers using EC997 dynos.
Factory Pro
 If you look at 2004 WERA Suzuki Cup Finals and The Suzuki World Cup Finals - you might notice that every cup winner either has a Factory Pro EC997 dyno or has used one!!! (and third place didn't....)

Testimonials

hi marc,
just like to say thanks, one of my customers dropped up his gsxr1000k4 today to have his v stacks installed that he purchased from you last week. just finished running his bike on dyno and well what can i say you guys sure make great products, the difference was really credible  and another happy customer for both of us.
regards,
danny  -  santry motorcycles
May 15, 2005
 

Shift Kits

Factory Pro's
Shift STAR

Note:
The stock detent star seems to loosen up the bolt that holds it on, causing missed shifts - esp. 2nd gear. Your Suzuki dealer will probably warranty it (if possible) and retighten it. It's a perfect time to install our S70 Detent Star, which fits tighter and is less likely to loosen up again, like the stock star.

.....................
 Sent: 10/12/2006 10:31:51 PM
From: GraVitY 0
Subject: Short Shift kit * Start for '06 GSX-R 750....
*smile* Thanks, reason I asked is that I own a shift star and the arm with BB for my SV and I love it. But at the time I ordered it you needed to make more. :D
 I'll be most likely calling you in the near future. 
Michael

Ignition Advance Kit

RTR-SUZ-37-06  $89.95

1. Choose your shipping method
14.00 Domestic USA Standard Ground 48.00 International USPS Express, tracked 44.50 Russia, USPS Priority, no tracking 8.00 each additional item in shipment
2.

Factory Pro Ignition Advance Plate

Adding this +4 plate (the same plate as what generally works best on the gsxr600 and the alternate for the gsxr750), will generally perk up the mighty 1000 to the tune of 2-3 more True HP when measured under full load (that's the proper way to measure real world power)  - but only if the stock ECU is remapped with the TEKA SFI tool. Part throttle power (power out of a corner) is also better. If one installs a pc or ems and electronically adds +4, the ignition "scatter" problems often negate the benefit of the more proper timing.

.................................

Power Commander Ignition Module SCALING Notes

(as of 2018)

In my experience, the Power Commander Ignition module "says" +/- "10", but it really only seems to change the ignition timing about +/-2-3 degrees (as of at least 09/19).  This was backed up by a DJ importer's experience.
According to a customer, dj told him  that ignition timing, doesn't affect power very much.
That's just wrong.
Factory Pro has over 30 years of research and development in high accuracy tuning in general and 20 years in producing Ignition Advancers (which REALLY DO change the ignition timing!)  and we've been producing dynamometers that read to .1 and .2 HP increments.

Testing on real load dyno, under realistic load, multiple DJ Ignition Modules on 600's and 1000's show that DJ +10  to DJ -10 "DJ degrees" equals around a 1% to 2% HP spread.
How could you change ignition timing a supposed "TWENTY DEGREES" and only affect the HP by 1% to 2%????

You can't change the ignition timing 20 degrees and only affect the power by a couple percent -  That's an obvious fact.
If you had "Best Power" ignition timing set and you retard or advance the timing a REAL 10 degrees, the bike world hardly run, losing around 10% - 20% True HP  if you retarded it.
if you advanced it a real 10 degrees, you'd lose a bunch of power, too and also, likely, give it fits of detonation.

Now - I'm still perplexed about the guy who posted that he gained 7 HP on his dynojet dyno with a "+5" setting on his DJ Ign Module!.   5 DJ degrees /  about 1 REAL degree = 5 hp? and also perplexed about the ignition map that I got from a DJ sponsored Race team that showed +1 and +2 and -1's in their "official"  map! Lessee? They changed the ignition timing a miniscule  real .2 degree and they could see that hp change?
The 06 R6 that we were working on? It actually wanted more than 10 "dynojet degrees" in quite a few every part throttle positions for Best Power settings and all of the full throttle settings ended up at +5 to +10 "dynojet degrees". Compare that to the zero settings at full throttle that were supplied and the +1, +2 an +3 "dj degree" settings that were supplied.

A significant ignition timing change, that power can be measured would MAYBE be a real 1 degree - but you can only measure the HP change if the fuel mixture is absolutely PERFECT for Best power (NOT to misleading dealership level "AFR tuning") already -

 Normally, a REAL 2 degrees ignition timing change will change the power (on a Perfectly fueled engine) by about 1%.

(example 100 True HP > 101 True HP if a "good direction change" OR 99 True HP if it was "the wrong 2 deg direction change").

When tuning on an EC997 dyno, (which has the capability of measuring .1 to .2 HP changes), essentially, there are only a couple of DJ Ign Module settings:

Zero
+5 Dynojet degrees or
+10 Dynojet degrees
and maybe "7" if "5" and "10" make the same power

"5 Dynojet degrees = about 2 Real degrees"

So - what does that tell you?
That you need to do testing on a high quality dyne system.
Then, you too, can learn all these "unpopular" facts!
We helped Jordan Racing develop into the top ranked AMA team they are. 

Best regards - Marc
 

Billet Engine Covers

   

05-06  COV-SUZ-52-LH-KT   $279.95
(With patented slider)

all 01-06  COV-S51-RH-KT     $99.95
(Inc patented Slider!)

Billet Engine Cover page

Billet Engine Covers w/ Sliders

For Race or Street use. Absolutely the strongest covers you can buy. Highest strength / weight ratio available! Maximum protection at under 1 pound of additional weight!
More cover thickness than stock on both RH and LH side covers.

LH side - 1"  slotted slider for fairing clearence.
RH side - has std. short slider that fits behind the fairing.

If you want to cut a hole in the LH fairing, order the optional "long" slider
Includes: Covers and replacement stainless steel allen screws.

Tech:
Allen screws supplied: 8 x 25mm for our thinner cover (more corner clearance) and 3 x 25mm for the alternator stator mounting. If you use the stock 30mm stator screws, the stator will knock when the engine warms up - as the 30mm screws bottom before the stator is tight.