Suzuki   GSXR 600, 04-05
Factory Pro Series "S64"

Factory Pro's
Teka SFI 2
FI programming tool

Factory Pro's
Billet SUPERFLARE Stacks

up to 4 True HP and 1000 extra rpm - pat pend design
Factory Pro's
Ignition Advance Kit
100% reliable advance method
Factory Pro's
GSXR Shift STAR Kit
wicked good shifting!


 

Teka SFI Fuel Injection Programming Tool




$695
base unit - accessories extra

International buyers will be billed an additional $44 for shipping

   Teka SFI Tool!

Make Suzuki Fuel Injection changes in 20 seconds!!

Tune 1 bike - tune 100 bikes - tune 1000 bikes  Tune your or your customers' Suzuki's like the AMA pro's!
Make the changes - then take the tool off - Not an add-on box!

$695
No ignition scatter like most add-on boxes!!

Robert Jensen, Hooters Racing, Vesrah Racing, Alan Schmidt, JJ Roetlin, Jake and Brian, too!
and the "others" with EC997 dyno tuned maps in their pc's and ems's.....

800 869-0497

 

Billet Velocity Stacks

pn: VEL-S64-4560      $249.95


international buyers will be billed $22 additional for shipping

Billet Beautiful and a bigger power improvement than some exhaust systems gain.

800 869-0497


Superflare Billet V Stacks
GSXR 600
04-05
(patented)

The EC997 dyno chart is in True HPtm scale.

To get dynojet HP, multiply True x 1.15 - to get Superflow HP, multiply x 1.18, to get Fuchs HP - Oh forget it! They all have the real HP number and then they inflate it so it reads higher on their dyno - expecting that they will sell more dynos if they make their dyno read higher than the other company's dyno. It so sad that some top 100 dealerships actually buy a dyno because it inflates HP more than another......
Me, being the marketing wizard that I am .... (not! :-) decided to start out telling the honest truth, years ago.
True HPtm is the actual amount of HP really delivered to the rear wheel.

It's not "dyno loading specific", it's not "apparent only on a dyno hp", it's not "only there under inertia loading" - It's real power, measured against a real, lifelike, "load" - as the bike experiences in the real world -

At least 10% of the dyno buying facilities in the USA have decided to go with honesty and real HP - using the EC997 Dyne systems as used at the best of tuning centers -
The Factory Pro Tuning Centers

You'll see them in F-USA - you'll see them as the winners of the biggest classes in WERA National Championships, you'll see them as multiple World Suzuki Cup Champions, you'll see them as the 2004 National USA Endurance Champions, too - They don't get fooled - they all use Factory Pro EC997 dyne systems for True HP.

Anyway.... the stacks.......
OK - the above dyno chart shows the power difference between a bike with stock exhaust and stock air filter, tuned to make best power with the TEKA SFI Programmer (no pc3!) and we changed just the stacks and retrimmed the fuel with the TEKA.
You can see on the 2 lower red and blue lines that we didn't change the mixture very much.

The original stock Suzuki "short" stacks have the same problem as the Graves stacks on the fi R6's - there's simply restricted airflow at high rpms to make optimal power at very high rpms - insufficient radius / flare. Interestingly, I think that they would only work well on a flow bench if you didn't duplicate the actual intake velocity and used low, typical flowbench velocities -

The results are typical for our patented v stacks - The Factory Pro stacks are shaped  better than stock, so they propagate and recover the intake wave more efficiently, as shown by the "meatier" upper midrange and make more power at redline, due to the improved flow rates at higher velocities.

Actually, as it turns out, the "short" stock Suzuki stacks, after the radius problems were worked out, were "too short".
They use a shorter stack to bias the high rpm power, with poor wave rates - We used better wave rates and then we could lengthen the intake tract length to get more midrange power. We ended up with better top (flow related) and better upper mid (wave rate).

<<<<< go over there...

 

The eternal battle in V stack development (notice I didn't say "design") is that what works best on a flow bench is NOT what works optimally "on" an engine - and what "perfect" intake tract length "calculates" as best.... is only "best" by accidental coincidence.

There has only been one manufacturer and then, on only one of their models, (as of April,05, we've done ~20 successful v stack R&D projects) that has had a set of stock stacks that simply worked as well as they possible could - Congratulations!

But I digress........ Buy these stacks for your 600 - get the power up to competitive levels - It takes about 1/2 hour to install and it's easy to do.
They work a lot better than stock and you don't have to modify your airbox to get that 2 to 5 True HP. It's as much power gain as some exhaust systems deliver.

 Hmmm..... that might be legal for AMA Supersport racing (I'm not asking)?.... You "could" call them "air jets", couldn't you?  :-)
Legal for F-USA racing, AFM Production racing and they are not larger than the original inlet hole if CCS rules that way.

Shift STAR kits

 

SHFT-PRO-SUZ-70

S-70 EVO Detent Star 
pre release kit:
includes "star" only
$130
(new manufacture)

For stock appearing STAR:
$150

Call 415 491-5920 to order
.......................

 Sent: 10/12/2006 10:31:51 PM
From: GraVitY 0
Subject: Re: Short Shift kit * Start for '06 GSX-R 750....

*smile* Thanks, reason I asked is that I own a shift star and the arm with BB for my SV and I love it. But at the time I ordered it you needed to make more. :D
 I'll be most likely calling you in the near future.
Michael

 

Factory Pro's
Shift STAR

The "Paddle Shifter" for your foot -

The Suzuki's (along  with just about every other bike) need help in shifting. Track tests report that 2nd gear had a repeatable ability to pop out into "neutral" under hard acceleration and downshifting is not as seamless as it could be -
Aside from that, the late style gsxr shift action is very flat feeling and gives very little tactile feedback as to confidence that it's really in gear or not. I hate it when you shift and you can hear the shift mechanism sort of  lazily "kathwaka" into it's final gear location. I like a confident, proper "snick"!
They had it so close to "almost good"  in 99 - I'm not sure why they changed it for the "non-better".... Oh well - After redesigning and testing and redesigning and testing, and redesigning and testing...... I now see how easy it is to get it wrong, though.
We have a new detent "star" with a copyrighted profile (yep, the "science failed, so, it's artwork - so it's copyrighted) that includes a particular combination of compound arcs and radii that produces a shift action that makes it almost impossible to miss a shift ("almost" is the key word here!), especially 2nd gear. At least, if you miss 2nd, now, you will be REALLY surprised - cause it's now a rare occurrence.
Downshifting confidence is 100% easier and better, also. Maybe that's just as important as not missing upshifts.
I'm happy with the "star" and couldn't possibly change it for the better and I figure that it will take Suzuki 4 years to copy it!
2 Versions:
1. New manufacture:
Beautifully machined on 8 Axis CNC machinery, machined from solid Cro-Mo steel bar stock, heat treated, Gold Zinc plated, a complex radii, beautiful part.
$130
2. Reworked "stock":
Same as above - except(!) finely machined on reworked on a built-up, stock Suzuki core.
This piece is virtually identical to the stock Suzuki part in "from outside" visible color, and, unless specifically looking for it, appears to be a stock part.
$150 with $25 core charge
Note:
The stock detent star seems to loosen up the bolt that holds it on, causing missed shifts - esp. 2nd gear. Your Suzuki dealer will probably warranty it (if possible) and retighten it. It's a perfect time to install our EVO Shift STAR, which fits tighter and is less likely to loosen up again, like the stock star.




cov_S33LH_S37RH_w_slider.jpg (163770 bytes)
 
04-05   gsxr 600
COV-SUZ-52-LH
$289.95
LH


98-05
COV-SUZ-51-RH
$99.95 RH

Billet Engine Covers

 

These are THE COVERS.

So good - they are patented!

NOT a simple, "knocked off" copy, machined from billet cover - these are the covers responsible for saving more engines from destruction and kept more racetracks cleaner than, perhaps, all other aftermarket "billet" covers combined!
For Race or Street use. Absolutely the strongest cover you can buy. Highest strength / weight ratio available! Maximum protection at ~1 pound of additional weight!
More cover thickness than stock on both RH and LH side covers.
Visible on LH and RH side - Can be show polished to a mirror finish!
Includes: Integral SLIDERS, Billet Covers, gaskets and replacement stainless steel allen screws.

SLIDERS available separately for replacement!

ask for 10% discount for set purchase!


Hi Marc,

I ran Factory Pro engine covers on my rookie season in 2005 as a Novice rider with the CMRA.  As you know us rookies tend to crash a bit more than others.  I'm sure I'm not the first to say the covers and sliders ROCK!  On several lowsides throughout the season the bike slid on the sliders and never once tumbled.  I contribute this to the position on the slider on the bike.  Friends with conventional sliders found the slider digging in and flipping the bike causing much damage. Needless to say, my season ended in one Championship and two 3rd places.  CMRA seen fit to bump me to expert in 2006.  I purchased two brand new GSXR's and have already installed Factory Pro covers on the one through RaceworX in Dallas.  Unfortunately I had the chance once again on December 20th  at MSR Houston to test them out.  Once again they performed great!!!! The bike slid on the slider.  Beside a few scrapes on the plastic the bike was not damaged. 
With this said I feel like I could represent your product with much confidence! If you offer a support program I would be glad to participate.  As I said, I have already purchased a set for the Superbike.  I'm only in need of a left side stator cover for the 06 GSXR 1000.  Attached is a copy of my resume along with a rendering on the new paint scheme for the 2006 season.
I feel the your product has saved me a ton of $$$$ in crash repairs over the past season.  Thanks again,

Marv Esterly

CMRA #496 Expert
 

 



BMC air  filter system

Designed by the same Italian craftsmen that developed Ferrari's F1 Air Filters - this filter filters well, flows more air and lets the engine make more power than the stock air filter.
Cleanable BMC air  filter systems (avail. direct from Factory Pro) for more power - click here   for more information.

True Rear Wheel Horsepowertm scale - difference between other scales.

35404 Race
~$74.95
call to order!
 



BMC air  filter system

Designed by the same Italian craftsmen that developed Ferrari's F1 Air Filters - this filter filters well, flows more air and lets the engine make more power than the stock air filter.
Cleanable BMC air  filter systems (avail. direct from Factory Pro) for more power - click here   for more information.

True Rear Wheel Horsepowertm scale - difference between other scales.

35404 Street
69.95
call to order!
Ignition Advance Plate kit





RTR-SUZ-37-04 std   $64.95

Ignition Advance Kit


International buyers will be billed an additional $16 for shipping

This advance kit really advances the ignition timing 4 degrees

This simple, bolt-on advance kit advances the timing 4 degrees. With stock engines with stock compression ratios, there is more power everywhere. Part throttle power is better - helping corner exit speeds. Improved in-town driveability and quicker warm up.
Installation instructions w/ large pics -
click here

 

Power Commander Ignition Module Notes

In my experience, the $350 Power Commander Ignition module "says" +/- "10", but it really only seems to change the ignition timing about +/-2 degrees (as of at least 07/2008).  This was backed up by a DJ importer's experience.
According to a customer, dj told him  that ignition timing, doesn't affect power very much.
That's just wrong.
Factory Pro has over 30 years of research and development in high accuracy tuning in general and 20 years in producing Ignition Advancers (which REALLY DO change the ignition timing!)  and we've been producing dynamometers that read to .1 and .2 HP increments.

Testing on real load dyno, under realistic load, multiple DJ Ignition Modules on 600's and 1000's show that DJ +10  to DJ -10 "DJ degrees" equals less than a 1% to 2% HP spread.
How could you change ignition timing a supposed "TWENTY DEGREES" and only affect the HP by 1% to 2%????

You can't change the ignition timing 20 degrees and only affect the power by a couple percent -  That's an obvious fact.
If you had "Best Power" ignition timing set and you retard or advance the timing a REAL 10 degrees, the bike world hardly run, losing around 10% - 20% True HP  if you retarded it.
if you advanced it a real 10 degrees, you'd lose a bunch of power, too and also, likely, give it fits of detonation.

Now - I'm still perplexed about the guy who posted that he gained 7 HP on his dynojet dyno with a "+5" setting on his DJ Ign Module!  - (I'll reserve comments, for once).....5 DJ degrees /  about 1 REAL degree = 5 hp? and also perplexed about the ignition map that I got from a DJ sponsored Yamaha Race team that showed +1 and +2 and -1's in their "official" R6 map! Lessee? They changed the ignition timing a miniscule  real .2 degree and they could see that hp change?
The 06 R6 that we were working on? It actually wanted more than 10 "dynojet degrees" at almost every part throttle position for Best Power settings and all of the full throttle settings ended up at +5 to +10 "dynojet degrees". Compare that to the zero settings at full throttle that were supplied and the +1, +2 an +3 "dj degree" settings that were supplied.

A significant ignition timing change, that power can be measured would MAYBE be a real 1 degree - but you can only measure the HP change if the fuel mixture is absolutely PERFECT for Best power (NOT to misleading dealership level "AFR tuning") already -

 Normally, a REAL 2 degrees ignition timing change will change the power (on a Perfectly fueled engine) by about 1%.

(example 100 True HP > 101 True HP if a "good direction change" OR 99 True HP if it was "the wrong 2 deg direction change").

So - the only reason to run a DJ Ignition Module is to use a DJ Quickshifter (until the TEKA 4 QS upgrade is released)
 the DJ Ignition function is, otherwise, essentially $350 useless cost.

When tuning on and EC997 dyno, (which has the capability of measuring .1 to .2 HP changes), essentially, there are only a couple of DJ Ign Module settings:
Zero
+ or - 5 Dynojet degrees or
+ or 1 10 Dynojet degrees
Don't expect huge HP changes - as, as described above, you'll see 1 or 2 hp at best (at least on a real dyno)

So - what does that tell you?
That you need to do testing on a high quality dyne system, like the Factory Pro EC997 .
Then, you too, can learn all these "unpopular" facts!
Like inertia HP isn't real HP in the real world, dj hp numbers are bogus, tuning to an AFR for best performance is a myth....
Join Jordan Racing and Vesrah Racing and Suzuki NZ -

(I'm sure that the guy who got "7 DJHP" with a real 1 degree (aka: 5 Dynojet degrees)  isn't my buddy right about now, though....)
 

Best regards - Marc
 

 tr_logo_white.gif (14715 bytes)
dealers only

If Dealers: If you want Parts Unlimited to carry this part, inform your road rep to request  it from his buyer.
 

Spark Plugs,
Denso

xxxETR-U - Standard replacement plug from the largest supplier of electronic components to the MC industry in the world.
~$3.00
xxxETR-ZU - Premium, Platinum, U Groove spark plug.
It is recommended to start a tuning session with new spark plugs.
~$10.00
Denso (ND, Nippon Denso) is the largest OEM supplier for autos and motorcycles of electrical components in the world. Sometimes, people forget that Denso makes pretty darn good spark plugs, too! Wide heat range properties discourage plug fouling at low speed AND overheating at high speed.
We have been using Denso spark plugs in our AMA Supersport bikes since Denso was Nippon Denso and ND. We have found that some standard, <$10, off the shelf, Denso spark plugs work as well as $125 special spark plugs - on a professional roadrace level!
Codes:
X = 12mm thread w/ 18mm hex
27 = Heat range. (Hint - it is ~3x NGK #. I.E. an "9" heat range in NGK)
E = 3/4" reach
P = Projected tip type plug or
T = Dual ground electrodes
R = Resister type internal construction
Z = Thin platinum center electrode w/ tapered ground (side) electrode
U = "U Groove" side electrode for better spark and finally..
9 = is "pregapped" at .9mm (You should check any "pregapped" plug before you install it..)

True Rear Wheel Horsepower® Factory EC997a Eddy Current Dynamometer

  [Most Recent Quotes from www.kitco.com]

Congratulations!

Dalke Motorsports 2005 WERA 600 Supersport Middleweight Endurance Champions

 

Links

www.gixxer.com

Tech

pn: RTR-SUZ-37-XX  -  ignition mount plate install and tech

application: gsxr600/gsxr750/gsxr1000, 1997 to 2005

tools required:
5mm allen wrench
#2 philips screwdriver
medium flatbladed screwdriver
Razor blade or Exacto knife
gasket sealant
14mm socket
air wrench


A look in.

Location of ignition trigger mounting plate on:

gsxr600, 97-05 (and similar)
gsxr750, 96-05 (and similar)
gsxr1000, 01-06(and similar)

1. Remove the outer "palm sized" small starter cover   (already removed).

2. Remove the inner, larger starter clutch cover (already removed). Remember, there is a screw in the upper left of the inner cover that is not accessible until the small, outer cover is removed. You will probably reuse the gasket

3. Remove the starter clutch bolt with a 14mm air wrench (that's the easiest and quickest way).

4. Remove the original ignition plate from the engine cases with a #2 Phillips screwdriver. (it's under the starter clutch gear)

 



5. With a flatbladed screwdriver, remove the ignition trigger coil from the original mounting plate and reinstall it onto the new Factory Pro ignition plate.
Be careful NOT to stab yourself with the screwdriver!

Note: The gold center core plate (at B, down arrow) of the coil assembly MUST extent "proud" of the surrounding off-white epoxy area when installed and tightened. There is a small amount of play to adjust with, and it must project outwards, towards the ignition rotor, usually ~.005" to .010".  (In other words, a real little bit)
If the center core is below the off-white surrounding area, the voltage produced will detrimentally affect the ignition system and make the engine difficult or impossible to start.

6. After installing the trigger coil to the ignition plate, temporarily reinstall the starter clutch and bolt and rotate the engine so that rotor projection at B, up arrow is aligned with the trigger coil (so you can measure the trigger coil clearance).

7. Install A-1phillips screw, snug. Install  A-2 Phillips screw and snug down.

8. Measure the clearance at B. It should be .015" to .020". Adjust by loosening A-1 and A-2 and pushing the plate towards the rotor. Tighten screws when done.
Notes:
1.  
.040" pickup coil to ignition rotor clearance will make the engine difficult or impossible to start.

2.  So - you cracked the magnet because you didn't line up the locating hole......
     It's OK - just put the 2 pieces together and retighten the 2 flat bladed screws. Lucky you!

 

dynoroom,onramp,toright.jpg (198084 bytes)



Question: If .040" clearance will make the engine difficult to start, and .020 starts well, is .010" better? Haven't had time to test that, yet...

9. Check the tightness of the coil plate screws, reinstall the ignition plate. Use a bit of light strength thread locking compound on the screws if you want, for a good job.

10. Reinstall the starter clutch and mounting bolt. BE SURE to line up the indexing marks on the crankshaft end and the starter clutch or the TDC marks will be wrong and that could cause big problems if using the TDC marks to adjust the valves later.....

11. Reinstall the covers (don't forget the screw under the small cover). Replace or reseal gaskets as necessary.

12. You should not have any parts left over, except for the old ignition plate.

    True Rear Wheel HP  measurement on the EC997!

 

 



Just In!!
(shipping Oct 20, 2008)

New and improved Teka SFI 2
with new TPS display and "MMT" Memory Module Tuner

Finally - Quick, easy, cost effective Suzuki tuning with no expensive "add-on boxes"
Suzuki cruisers and sportbikes

Please click here for more info

Contact Factory Pro
M-F, 9am - 6pm, Pacific time, -7 or -8 GMT

800 869-0497
 USA and Canada

415 491-5920

fax 415 492-8803

parts information
 info@factorypro.com

EC997 dynamometer information
info@factorypro.com

Product Support /Tech SECTION
click here

 

Mailing / Shipping address:
Factory Pro
179 Paul Drive
San Rafael, CA 94903
USA

And most importantly
Restart back at the HOME page and click on the red box in the top left to find the bike that you want parts for...
restart at HOME page

 

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Factory Pro Fall Special!

Book a sightseeing flight over the Wine Country or a Kamikaze aerobatic flight or a biplane flight over Infineon Raceway, the Golden Gate Bridge and the San Francisco Bay for one or two during the months of  October and November and get a free souvenir t shirt!
(and ask about the P-40 restoration project!)

707 938 2444

Just say that you saw this on the Factory Pro website!
Marc

Northern California's most unforgettable flying experience.  No experience required.  Open weekends!

 
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Specializing in Handmade Brie & Camembert

Marin French Cheese Co., also known as The Cheese Factory and Rouge et Noir is not just the oldest cheese manufacturer in the country, but a vacationers and day trippers destination as well as a unique part of American History. Located north of San Francisco, east of Napa County, west of Pt. Reyes and Olema and south of Sonoma County, Marin French has produced hand crafted Artisan soft ripened cheese since 1865. Rouge et Noir cheeses are similar to French and European varieties but reflect the characteristics of Northern California, producing it's own regional style.


 

The extension of the laboratory for engines of the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology was completed in about 1935. Its architect was Rudolf Otto Salvisberg (1882-1940). He had a successful career in Berlin but returned to Switzerland after the advent of the Nazis. His architectural style was somewhat similar to that of Erich Mendelsohn. The staircase of the laboratory is in normal use but well preserved.
Edited to the tunes of Chemical Residue by Herbie Hancock.




Maybe in next rewrite, he'll fix the ignition timing and dyno chapters...
Otherwise great book with great starting ideas.

My bible


The little blue bible for quick references and little known facts.