TL1000s / TL1000r

Factory Pro Series "S91"

Factory Pro
Teka SFI
Suzuki FI programming tool

Factory Pro
Ignition Advance Kit
100% reliable advance method. NO add-on ignition module
Factory Pro
wicked good shifting
BMC gsx1300r.JPG (330377 bytes) BMC filters
Factory Pro
SV / TL Alloy Tank Risers
wicked good air! + True 1hp
  52mm throttle bodies

DL1000 stacks DO NOT fit the TL1000.


Teka SFI - Suzuki Fuel Injection Adjusting Tool

base unit - accessories extra

 for dealers who want their new bikes to run well BEFORE they leave with their new owners!


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Teka SFI FI TuningTool
(Factory Pro's digital Suzuki FI adjust tool to retune the STOCK ECU!)

Make National Winning quality Suzuki Fuel Injection changes in 20 seconds!!  
 Tune 1 bike - tune 100 bikes - tune 1000 bikes  Tune your or your customers' Suzuki's like the AMA pro's!
Make the changes - then take the tool off - Not an add-on box!

Mike Smith, Robert Jensen, Hooters Racing, Alan Schmidt, JJ, Jake and Brian, too!
2nd and 7th 750 Superstock
TEKA SFI fuel injected and the "others" with EC997 dyno tuned maps in their pc's and ems's.....
Factory Pro EC997 dyno tuned Suzuki 750's

Order now - 800 869-0497

Can ride while installed,
then, remove and settings stay!

set each cylinder's idle and adjust running
throttle positions!

Adjust both Idle and Run

Adjust all these throttle ranges  -
then remove the Teka SFI tool!


Hybrid Ceramic Wheel Bearings


2 bearing kit

front wheel only

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Hybrid Ceramic Wheel  Bearings

2 front wheel bearings

Tough 52100 steel races, rubber seals and lightweight, almost  friction free, silicon nitride ceramic balls.

Bearings are pregreased and ready to use.
Bearings have rubber seals that are easy to remove if desired.

Teka MMT Module
EZ tune MMT (adj. memory module) Power Tube

1 MMT module + shipping
Additional notes for seller



MMT Power Tuner

After tuning with a Teka SFI 2,
you can use this optional module to fine fine adjust fueling with a screwdriver adjustable rotary switch.

MMT plugs right in to the bikes tuning port (same as the SFI).

If tuning with the SFI 2 / MMT combination:
The MMT is plugged into the bike, the SFI 2 is plugged into the MMT and all tuning settings from the SFI 2 are stored in the MMT and automatically transferred to the bike.
After SFI tuning, the SFI is removed and the MMT is left on the bike.
Then, for any fine tuning or adjusting after you maybe change air filters or similar or high altitude or a lot of freeway riding, you can just tweak the MMT Power Select Switch to a different number.
"5" = "as tuned with the SFI 2
"6" to "9" = incrementally richer
"4" to "1" = incrementally richer
"0" = "All zero ECU settings

If tuning with the MMT only (without custom SFI tuning):
If just installing an MMT without SFI custom  retuning, just installing the MMT will allow you to adjust, globally, incrementally richer or leaner with the Power Select rotary switch.

If you first install an MMT and decide the have it custom tuned with the SFI 2,  no problem.
Just plug the SFI 2 into the MMT's Tuning port and tune that perfect map.

Then, you still have the ability to "trim" map for conditions with the Power Select Switch - and you even have, by setting it at "0", to recheck how the "zero" map was in comparison to your "SFI Tuned Map". 

EZ install - all stock connectors, no splicing.

Evo Shift STAR kit - Kit for shift improvement (maybe like a "night and day" improvement?)

SHFT-EVO-S91-KT  $239.95

STAR, Arm, Spring, shift cover gasket

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Evo Shift STAR
Includes Factory Pro's AWESOME Evo Shift STAR - Totally changes the rough in town shifting the Suzuki's are known for into the sweetest shifting bike - The one you've always wanted!
In town shifting is effortless and slick - on track or when high speed - a shift is a light tap and it's done. No bike "unsettling".

 last lap, last corner, 110 mph, two wheel drift... passing on the outside, bike carefully controlled by just the subtlest of weight transfer and just a "fingers touch" on the throttle... you run out of rpm and need to upshift to complete the pass.... you need to shift.... it's ok.... a tap and you are in the 4th, still in a drift....... you keep slightly pulling... around.... slowly win...... 

Or just remember how clunky the shifting is around town.......

Factory Pro designed, refined and manufactured Shift STAR, Factory Pro's Microbearing Detent Arm, heavy duty detent spring and gasket. Makes shifting quicker and more positive - "virtually" eliminating those nasty missed shifts, upshifts and downshifts. The stronger detent spring rotates the shift drum quicker, so the gears are more likely to engage under quick shift conditions - and those occasional "lazy" ones we all do sometimes, too -
The Factory Pro Microbearing Detent Arm removes friction for the quickest shifting.
The EVO STAR? Makes it AWESOMELY nice.
The closest to a "paddle shifter" for a motorcycle that you will ever find!!

08 24 05...... Hmmm.... just drove a Ferrari 360 with paddle shift..... Errr.... paddle shifting with auto clutch isn't as great as it sounds..... It's not really so swift and it's not that smooth in sub 80mph curves...... Might be better with a manual clutch override function....

The EVO Shift STAR kit is the below Pro Shift Kit, with the addition of the Factory Pro Evo STAR.

Great Product!
I just installed my Detent Star & wanted you to know it transformed how my TL shifted! no more miss-shifts. 
Thanks - Brian Kirner

Daniel Garza wrote:

DAM!!!!!  my hats off to the people who did the R&D on the star man it shifts awesome.  Billy said my stock piece was already loose so it worked out great.  he says hi back at you.  anyways great product
thanx - danny

Ignition Advance Kit / Ignition Advance "rotor"

 RTR-SUZ-36-04    $89.95

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 Ignition Advance Kit

Use this simple kit to advance the ignition timing 4 degrees for more power at part throttle and at full throttle.
Install the key with offset to the LEFT to advance the timing!
For easiest, quickest install - we suggest that you have access to an air or electric 1/2"  impact wrench - That makes it simple to remove the rotor bolt --
Kit includes special key AND Factory Pro's own heat treated, tool steel, plated rotor puller.
Replaces OEM key #09420-04008
TL1000s all / TL1000r all
SV1000 till at least 07
SV650 till at least 07
Hayabusa 1300 till at least 07

Takes about 1/2 hour to install and adds 1-2 True HP.



Yes, Factory Pro does make a ignition advancer for our bikes.

I installed it at the same time as the shift kit.

It was another mod worth doing as I already was using a pc11 and even the dyno operator was surprised by  the results.

it gave me another 2bhp and 1lbs torque on top of the pc11 output.

So my 97 tls runs with pc11 + factory pro 4 degree ignition advancer kit, K&N and full Akrapovic system. Total Rear wheel HP on a very cold day was 131 hp and 82lbs torque so normal conditions should see a true 125-126 hp.



Power Commander Ignition Module Notes

In my experience, the $350 Power Commander Ignition module "says" +/- "10", but it really only seems to change the ignition timing about +/-2-3 degrees (as of at least 02/09).  This was backed up by a DJ importer's experience.
According to a customer, dj told him  that ignition timing, doesn't affect power very much.
That's just wrong.
Factory Pro has over 30 years of research and development in high accuracy tuning in general and 20 years in producing Ignition Advancers (which REALLY DO change the ignition timing!)  and we've been producing dynamometers that read to .1 and .2 HP increments.

Testing on real load dyno, under realistic load, multiple DJ Ignition Modules on 600's and 1000's show that DJ +10  to DJ -10 "DJ degrees" equals aromd a 1% to 2% HP spread.
How could you change ignition timing a supposed "TWENTY DEGREES" and only affect the HP by 1% to 2%????

You can't change the ignition timing 20 degrees and only affect the power by a couple percent -  That's an obvious fact.
If you had "Best Power" ignition timing set and you retard or advance the timing a REAL 10 degrees, the bike world hardly run, losing around 10% - 20% True HP  if you retarded it.
if you advanced it a real 10 degrees, you'd lose a bunch of power, too and also, likely, give it fits of detonation.

Now - I'm still perplexed about the guy who posted that he gained 7 HP on his dynojet dyno with a "+5" setting on his DJ Ign Module!  - .5 DJ degrees /  about 1 REAL degree = 5 hp? and also perplexed about the ignition map that I got from a DJ sponsored Race team that showed +1 and +2 and -1's in their "official"  map! Lessee? They changed the ignition timing a miniscule  real .2 degree and they could see that hp change?
The 06 R6 that we were working on? It actually wanted more than 10 "dynojet degrees" in quite a few every part throttle positions for Best Power settings and all of the full throttle settings ended up at +5 to +10 "dynojet degrees". Compare that to the zero settings at full throttle that were supplied and the +1, +2 an +3 "dj degree" settings that were supplied.

A significant ignition timing change, that power can be measured would MAYBE be a real 1 degree - but you can only measure the HP change if the fuel mixture is absolutely PERFECT for Best power (NOT to misleading dealership level "AFR tuning") already -

 Normally, a REAL 2 degrees ignition timing change will change the power (on a Perfectly fueled engine) by about 1%.

(example 100 True HP > 101 True HP if a "good direction change" OR 99 True HP if it was "the wrong 2 deg direction change").

So - the only reason to run a DJ Ignition Module is to use a DJ Quickshifter
 the DJ Ignition function is, otherwise, essentially $350 useless cost.

When tuning on and EC997 dyno, (which has the capability of measuring .1 to .2 HP changes), essentially, there are only a couple of DJ Ign Module settings:
+ or - 5 Dynojet degrees or
+ or 1 10 Dynojet degrees
and maybe "7" if "5" and "10" make the same power
Don't expect huge HP changes - as, as described above, you'll see 1 or 2 hp at best (at least on a real dyno)

So - what does that tell you?
That you need to do testing on a high quality dyne system, like the Factory Pro EC997 .
Then, you too, can learn all these "unpopular" facts!
Like inertia HP isn't real HP in the real world, dj hp numbers are bogus, tuning to an AFR for best performance is a myth....
We helped Jordan Racing develop into the top ranked AMA team they are.

(I'm sure that the guy who got "7 DJHP" with a real about 1 degree (aka: 5 Dynojet degrees)  isn't my buddy right about now, though....)

Best regards - Marc


Tank Risers, SV 650 / TL 1000

Now!  $34.95

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When the first SV's came out, we discovered that the fuel tank was too close to the air inlet for the airbox and it blocked some valuable air flow - hurting peak power (and the 1000 needs all it can get!!)

So - In our old premium SV650 carb kits, we provided 17mm risers (16mm wasn't enough and 19mm was awkwardly high and did little more than 17mm) -

So - the "magic" size of 17mm was born!

+1 True HP in 5 minutes!!!
(Could be nothing to 3 on a dynojet dyno, but most of us know that's just typical ludicrous dj dyno error)

OK - You can get a longer screws and stack up "fender" washers or you can get these cool alloy machined tank risers and stainless steel allen screws and be COOL!!!

Air Filter, BMC  

BMC gsx1300r.JPG (330377 bytes)

BMC air  filter system

depending on model
Drop in a Factory Pro BMC air filter and add a horse or so at high rpm. Really. You can clean it, too!
The stock FI system recognizes the decreased inlet restriction (higher pressure) and automatically adds a teeny bit more fuel to compensate. At least it compensates in the general "right" direction. We haven't seen any drivability problems caused by the filter - but if you were to dial in the stock ECU with the Teka SFI programming tool (not an add-on box that stays on the bike), your bike will be better - even w/o changing the air filter.....
Does not work well with power commander.

Designed by the same Italian craftsmen that developed Ferrari's F1 Air Filters - this filter filters well, flows more air and lets the engine make more power than the stock air filter.
Cleanable BMC air  filter systems (avail. direct from Factory Pro) for more power - click here   for more information.

True Rear Wheel Horsepower scale - difference between other scales.

Shifting Tech - gearbox secrets
(or Marc Salvisberg gives it up......)

So.... you've looked at gearboxes for years and  inside the cases, they look pretty much the same.
Every brand's transmissions feel and work differently, model to model and even specifically, bike to specific bike.
One reason?

Check this part out -
If the Arms are centered, the trans tends to shift equally well, up or down.

If the fingers are closer to the pin that the shift shaft arm needs to grab to downshift, downshifts will be "quicker" and vice versa.

  This is good.

The pins are centered between fingers when the shift shaft is at rest.

If you look closely at the LH picture, you can see that I shimmed up the shift shaft centering stud with a folded business card, ~.024" offset made the difference.

  This is not so good.

The pins are not centered between fingers when the shift shaft is at rest.

If they don't drop down fully, beyond the "pins", that prevents the "fingers" from dropping down and getting ready for the next shift.

If you've got issues - check.



Adjustable Center Shift Stud, 8mm       $24.95

(and possibly others that use 8x125mm threaded "fixed" stud)

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If the shift shaft fingers aren't centered on the shift shaft, Factory Pro has the fix.

It's a special 8mm thread, offset "centering" stud, adjustable by almost 1mm. For example, the difference in the above example was only .31mm/.024".

More experienced mechanics will recall when almost all transmissions were equipped with parts like these. That allowed the engine builder to set the shift shaft to exactly in the center for the best possible shift performance. We'd all like to think that the original engineers never make mistakes, but then we wouldn't need warranties, yes?

Install the stud with enough threads exposed for the locknut.
Turn stud till shift shaft "fingers" are centered on detent STAR pins.
Tighten down the locknut.
Recheck indexing.

This fits all the  DL650 / SV650 / SV TL DL 1000 and others.




TECH Information:

TL1000s, early models

surging at cruise, EFI, ECU,

The early TL1000s' went through a trying debut. The bike's commonly had a fairly significant surge and Suzuki warranteed a large number of ECU's, trying to get the fueling right. Eventually, (ecu #3?) they sorted it out.

In 97, we ran an S on an EC997 dyno and immediately picked up that there was a lot of oxygen in the exhaust during and
EC997 dyno test and I think that somebody at Suzuki was thinking that the bike was too lean

(oh... the dreaded "tune to an af ratio" myth strikes again and costs Suzuki hundreds of thousands of dollars).... and they reprogrammed the ecu's richer, unequally.. or equally, but he bike didn't want whatever they originally did on ecu 1 and 2.....

You can tune even the original, non-warranteed, 1000S ecu's. (we just an original ecu on in Jan, 2006!)

Teka SFI.

Make best idle mixture, on each cylinder, while the bike is running.

Then, tune the 10%, as the Teka SFI instructions say.

THEN....... (and this is not a required proceed on 99.9% of other model bikes), in NEUTRAL, bring the bike up to 2000 - 3000 rpm (wherever the roughest running parts is) and adjust the IDLE settings, cylinder by cylinder till it runs smooth.
The IDLE setting actually offsets the 10% TEKA fueling, too....... so you are tuning each cylinder's cruise fueling individually.

Instant smooth at cruise!   :-)


Thermostat The coolant thermostat controls the minimum coolant temperature.

It doesn't raise the maximum coolant temperature, only the lowest temperature allowed by the thermostat.

The TL's that we've worked with had a running range of ~40f - from 165f-170f cruising down the highway on a cool day to 200f-205f in ~25mph traffic at <3000rpm. At that spread of temperatures, the TL's FI system didn't correct adequately, allowing rich and lean problems to appear and disappear as the coolant temp changed.

There are several solutions if there is are tuning problems caused by excessive coolant temp range.

Replacing the thermostat with a higher minimum temp unit, perhaps 185f. Easy to do.

The water pump doesn't pump much below 3000rpm, so "blipping" the throttle above 3k occasionally when in traffic helps move the coolant through the radiator and lower the temp - decreasing the coolant temperature.

Backfire under Decel (persistent) Air cannot be allowed to enter the exhaust port. If there are ports that bleed air through the head into the port, plug them.
Gear Indicator Resistance So, you heard something about "Big Pink"? As measured on 1998 TL1000R, in-house unit: Gear and indicator resistances as follows:
1st: 567 ohms
2nd: 827 ohms
3rd: 1.5k ohms
4th: 2.7k ohms
5th: 6.81k ohms
6th: 14.97k ohms
If you want to fool the ECU into thinking it's in one gear or another, you could jump a resistor across the 2 wires on the main harness that would normally go to the gear indicator unit at the end of the shift drum.
As an example. If you wanted to trick the ECU into thinking that the bike was in, say 4th gear, you would place a 2.7k ohm between the appropriate wires. Don't call us and ask any more about it - it's up to you to use this information as based on facts, rumor, intuition, wishes and desires......
Also, the resistance values seem to be identical to the 98-99 GSXR750 - and the 00-02 gsxr750 and the gsxr1000's....









Absolutely NO carb parts sold in California.

New and improved Suzuki Teka SFI  2

with new TPS display and "MMT" Memory Module Tuner

Finally - Quick, easy, cost effective Suzuki tuning with no expensive "add-on boxes"
Suzuki cruisers and sportbikes

Please click here for more info

Contact Factory Pro
M-F, 9am - 5pm, Pacific time, -7 or -8 GMT

800 869-0497
 USA and Canada

415 491-5920

parts information

EC997 dynamometer information

Product Support /Tech SECTION
click here


Mailing / Shipping address:

Factory Pro
179 Paul Drive
San Rafael, CA 94903

And most importantly
Restart back at the HOME page and click on the red box in the top left to find the bike that you want parts for...
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EFI and Carb Tuning - Most all FI and carb tuning

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The extension of the laboratory for engines of the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology was completed in about 1935. Its architect was Rudolf Otto Salvisberg (1882-1940). He had a successful career in Berlin but returned to Switzerland after the advent of the Nazis. His architectural style was somewhat similar to that of Erich Mendelsohn. The staircase of the laboratory is in normal use but well preserved.
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