Suzuki
DL1000 V Strom
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Factory Pro's |
Factory Pro's Ignition Advance Kit 100% reliable advance method. NOT an add-on ignition module |
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Factory Pro's |
BMC filters | ||
Factory Pro's GSXR Shift STAR Kit wicked good shifting! |
Factory Pro's Adjustable Centering Stud An elegant part of blueprinting the shifting |
DL1000 Superflare Velocity Stacks
Another great
power product from the only mc focused company in the world that produces
a large variety of tuning products AND supports good product development
by producing the most sensitive of chassis dynamometers, the
EC997
Low Inertia Dyne Systems - the same
EC997 dyno system that F-USA and
ASRA use to police power levels in HP race classes. In just 45 minutes and regular hand tools, these new Factory Pro
designed Superflare billet stacks will provide 2-4 True HP, generally
even without retuning. |
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The DL True HP chart >>>>>> It's a: RED>>>>> BLUE>>>> Results: VEL-S51-3570/DL1000 $139.95 |
Remember! True HP x about 1.15% = Dynojet HP |
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BUT....... You wonder.... Why does the power drop off so much after 7,000 rpm? It's a weird, unnatural way for an engine to work!? Well, Billy, it's like this...... So! Here's a True HP dyno chart with GREEN, being, simply removing the secondary butterfly PLATES (not the whole shaft, which would cause FI error code 29). Rather enticing, eh!?! Double BUT! |
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So - I tortured you enough..... Here's what it looks like if you: up to 7 to 8 True HP peak improvement and...... +4 to 5 at 5,000
It could even be a bit better with the addition
of the below mentioned Ignition Advance Kit |
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Shift Star Kit SHFT-EVO-S93-KT/DL1000 $199.95 |
EVO
Shift STAR Kit Includes: 2019 sv650
I received the parts yesterday, and got them
installed. The shifting on this bike is monumentally
improved. More positive engagement, not vague
feeling anymore like it was. I have 10 bikes, and
this was the only o e I had shift problems with. I
am a soft shifter. I think my problems might be
over. Shift star, detent roller with heavier spring,
and the adjustable shift stud are a fantastic
improvement. Well worth the wait!!!!
Todd
2012 DL650 L2 Hey, I just had the shift star
installed at Factory Pro. I let Marc talk me into it after he heard
me lamenting about false neutrals and how "ratchity" I thought the
shifter was on my Glee. Yes, I keep the linkage clean and lubed but
I've never been happy with it. Well, I must tell you, the Factory
Pro shift star mod works. I wear work boots during the week and
touring boots on the weekend so I was always adjusting my shift
lever. Now I leave it in the "touring" position and all is good. The
shifting is now smooth and concise no matter which position the
shift lever is in. Tick, tick, tick go the shifts. Thanx Marc
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RTR-SUZ-36-04 $99.95 |
Use this kit to advance the ignition timing 4 degrees for more power
at part throttle and at full throttle. Takes about 1/2 hour to install and adds 1-2 True HP. .............................
Power Commander Ignition Module SCALING Notes (as of 2018)
In my experience, the Power Commander
Ignition module "says" +/- "10", but it really only seems to change
the ignition timing about +/-2-3 degrees (as of at least 09/19). This was backed up by a DJ importer's experience.
Testing on
real load dyno, under realistic load, multiple DJ Ignition Modules on 600's
and 1000's show that DJ +10 to DJ -10 "DJ degrees" equals around a 1%
to 2% HP spread. You can't change the ignition timing 20 degrees
and only affect the power by a couple percent - That's an obvious fact. Now - I'm still perplexed about the guy who
posted that he gained 7 HP on his dynojet dyno with a "+5" setting on his DJ Ign
Module!. 5 DJ degrees / about
1 REAL degree = 5 hp? and also perplexed about the ignition map that I got from
a DJ sponsored Race team that showed +1 and +2 and -1's in their
"official" map! Lessee? They changed the ignition timing a miniscule
real .2 degree and they could see that hp change? A significant ignition timing change, that power can be measured would MAYBE be a real 1 degree - but you can only measure the HP change if the fuel mixture is absolutely PERFECT for Best power (NOT to misleading dealership level "AFR tuning") already - Normally, a REAL 2 degrees ignition timing change will change the power (on a Perfectly fueled engine) by about 1%. (example 100 True HP > 101 True HP if a "good direction change" OR 99 True HP if it was "the wrong 2 deg direction change").
Zero "5 Dynojet degrees = about 2 Real degrees" So - what does that tell you? Best regards - Marc |
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call works on TLs, gsxr's, Busa's! Hook it up - richen or lean it - 30 seconds.
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Taking the tuning industry by storm! Easy to tune the R's and S's with the same unit - Improves low rpm
over pc's and stock!
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Compliments to Catfish! |
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Drop in a Factory Pro BMC air filter
and add 3hp-4hp at high rpm. Really. The stock FI system recognizes the increased airflow and automatically adds more fuel to compensate. We haven't seen any drivability problems caused by the filter - we can't say the same about other aftermarket filters! For best results, add +5 L with Yoshimura Fuel Injection Adjustment Box or really dial you bike in with the TEKA SFI (Suzuki FI adjust tool). Does not work well with power commander. Designed by the same Italian craftsmen that developed Ferrari's F1 Air Filters - this filter filters well, flows more air and lets the engine make more power than the stock air filter. Cleanable BMC air filter systems (avail. direct from Factory Pro) for more power - click here for more information. True Rear Wheel Horsepowertm scale - difference between other scales. |
FI-BMC-14101S
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Shifting
Tech - gearbox secrets
So.... you've looked at
gearboxes for years and
inside the cases, they look
pretty much the same.
Check this part out -
If the fingers are closer to the
pin that the shift shaft arm
needs to grab to downshift,
downshifts will be "quicker" and
vice versa. |
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This is
good. The pins are centered between fingers when the shift shaft is at rest. If you look closely at the LH picture, you can see that I shimmed up the shift shaft centering stud with a folded business card, ~.024" offset made the difference. |
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This is not
so good. The pins are not centered between fingers when the shift shaft is at rest. If they don't drop down fully, beyond the "pins", that prevents the "fingers" from dropping down and getting ready for the next shift. If you've got issues - check. |
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Adjustable
Center Shift Stud, 8mm
$24.95 |
If the
shift shaft fingers aren't
centered on the shift shaft,
Factory Pro has the fix.
It's a
special 8mm thread, offset
"centering" stud, adjustable by
almost 1mm. For example, the
difference in the above example
was only .31mm/.024". Install the
stud with enough threads exposed
for the locknut. This fits all the DL650 / SV650 and others. |
Power Commander Ignition Module Notes
In my experience, the $350 Power
Commander Ignition module "says" +/- "10", but it really only seems
to change the ignition timing about +/-2-3 degrees (as of at least
02/09). This was backed up by a DJ importer's experience.
According to a customer, dj told him that ignition timing,
doesn't affect power very much.
That's just wrong.
Factory Pro has over 30 years of research and development in high
accuracy tuning in general and 20 years in producing Ignition
Advancers (which REALLY DO change the ignition timing!) and
we've been producing
dynamometers that read to .1 and .2 HP
increments.
Testing on
real load dyno, under realistic load, multiple DJ Ignition Modules on 600's
and 1000's show that DJ +10 to DJ -10 "DJ degrees" equals aromd a 1%
to 2% HP spread.
How could you change ignition timing a supposed "TWENTY
DEGREES" and only affect the HP by 1% to 2%????
You can't change the ignition timing 20 degrees
and only affect the power by a couple percent - That's an obvious fact.
If you had "Best Power" ignition timing set and you retard or advance the timing
a REAL 10 degrees, the bike world hardly run, losing around 10% - 20% True HP
if you retarded it.
if you advanced it a real 10 degrees, you'd lose a bunch of power, too and also,
likely, give it fits of detonation.
Now - I'm still perplexed about the guy who
posted that he gained 7 HP on his dynojet dyno with a "+5" setting on his DJ Ign
Module! - .5 DJ degrees / about
1 REAL degree = 5 hp? and also perplexed about the ignition map that I got from
a DJ sponsored Race team that showed +1 and +2 and -1's in their
"official" map! Lessee? They changed the ignition timing a miniscule
real .2 degree and they could see that hp change?
The 06 R6 that we were working on? It actually wanted more than 10 "dynojet degrees"
in quite a few every part
throttle positions for Best Power settings and all of the full throttle settings
ended up at +5 to +10 "dynojet degrees". Compare that to the zero settings at
full throttle that were supplied and the +1, +2 an +3 "dj degree" settings that
were supplied.
A significant ignition timing change, that power can be measured would MAYBE be a real 1 degree - but you can only measure the HP change if the fuel mixture is absolutely PERFECT for Best power (NOT to misleading dealership level "AFR tuning") already -
Normally, a REAL 2 degrees ignition timing change will change the power (on a Perfectly fueled engine) by about 1%.
(example 100 True HP > 101 True HP if a "good direction change" OR 99 True HP if it was "the wrong 2 deg direction change").
So - the only reason to run a DJ Ignition
Module is to use a DJ Quickshifter (until the TEKA 4 QS upgrade is released)
the DJ Ignition function is, otherwise, essentially $350 useless cost.
When tuning on and
EC997 dyno,
(which has the capability of measuring .1 to .2 HP changes), essentially, there
are only a couple of DJ Ign Module settings:
Zero
+ or - 5 Dynojet degrees or
+ or 1 10 Dynojet degrees
and maybe "7" if "5" and "10" make the same power
Don't expect huge HP changes - as, as described above, you'll see 1 or 2 hp at
best (at least on a real dyno)
So - what does that tell you?
That you need to do testing on a high quality dyne system, like the
Factory Pro EC997 .
Then, you too, can learn all these "unpopular" facts!
Like inertia HP isn't real HP in the real world, dj hp numbers are bogus, tuning to
an AFR for best performance is a myth....
Join Xxxxxx Racing and Vesrah Racing and Suzuki NZ -
(I'm sure that the guy who got "7 DJHP" with a real 1 degree
(aka: 5 Dynojet degrees) isn't my buddy right about now, though....)
Best regards - Marc
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LINKS | ||||||||||
EFI and Carb Tuning - Most all FI and carb tuning by Wheelsmith Racing |
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Flight Training - train with AMA race winner Todd Harrington. The Harringtons own American Flyers, one of the most established flight training facilities in the USA. 8 locations 800-362-0808 |
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The Rich Oliver
Mystery School will help you discover your hidden inner strength.
It will challenge you. It will teach you a new way of thinking, and a new way of riding. You can take your riding to an exciting new level! We use a variety of proven drills and training techniques. Practicing these techniques with our Yamaha dirt track trainers will enhance your abilities both on the track or the street. It doesn't matter what you ride or race, the Rich Oliver Mystery School improves everyone's skill level and mindset! |
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WW2 vintage flying Special Book a sightseeing flight over the Wine Country
or a Kamikaze aerobatic flight or a biplane flight over famous
Sonoma Raceway,
the Golden Gate Bridge and the San Francisco Bay for one or two during
the spring and get a free souvenir t shirt! 707 938 2444 |
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The extension of the laboratory
for engines of the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology was completed
in about 1935. Its architect was Rudolf Otto Salvisberg (1882-1940).
He had a successful career in Berlin but returned to Switzerland after
the advent of the Nazis. His architectural style was somewhat similar
to that of Erich Mendelsohn. The staircase of the laboratory is in normal
use but well preserved. Edited to the tunes of Chemical Residue by Herbie Hancock. |