DL1000,14, Shift Star Kit Factory Pro 800 869-0947

Factory Pro Superflare Billet Velocity Stacks
	DL1000 Superflare Velocity Stacks Another great power product from the only mc focused company in the world that produces a large variety of tuning products AND supports good product development by producing the most sensitive of chassis dynamometers, the EC997 Low Inertia Dyne Systems - the same EC997 dyno system that F-USA and ASRA use to police power levels in HP race classes. EC997's have been the dyno of choice for USA #1 Vesrah Racing, Michael Xxxxxx Racing and Suzuki NZ. In just 45 minutes and regular hand tools, these new Factory Pro designed Superflare billet stacks will provide 2-4 True HP, generally even without retuning. That's what we got when we did R&D on a stock engined DL that had a common competition exhaust system installed. We'd expect about the same improvement in results with an DL with a street exhaust system or even the stock exhaust system.
The DL True HP chart >>>>>> It's a: DL1000, with stock exhaust system, SNORKEL REMOVED, FI system NOT retuned (but mixture is "close") RED>>>>> 35/70 Factory Pro stacks, SNORKEL REMOVED, not FI retuned, even though it's a bit too rich. BLUE>>>> stock rubber Suzuki stacks and still, SNORKEL REMOVED and still not FI retuned Results: The Factory Pro Superflares stacks show a needed 3 True HP boost at peak at 7,000 rpm indicated and a nice boost throughout the powerband - especially at 6,000 rpm, where it gained 5-7 True HP (I was surprised, too - but - there's plenty of additional fully loaded dyno tests that back up the gains. Marc) VEL-S51-3570 $139.95 1. Choose your shipping method 2.	Remember! True HP x about 1.15% = Dynojet HP
BUT....... You wonder.... Why does the power drop off so much after 7,000 rpm? It's a weird, unnatural way for an engine to work!? Well, Billy, it's like this...... The secondary butterflies begin to close back down around 7,000 rpm, cutting off airflow and horsepower. Why did they do that? "Mongo not know - only pawn in game of life......" So! Here's a True HP dyno chart with GREEN, being, simply removing the secondary butterfly PLATES (not the whole shaft, which would cause FI error code 29). Rather enticing, eh!?! Double BUT! If you remove the secondary plates, the high rpm fuel delivery leans WAAAY out (VERY BAD), as you can see on the lower green CO% trace and you MUST retune the FI with a Teka 4 FI Module (800 869-0497 to order), or if you MUST, a PC3. You need a "mappable device" to address the leanness that's only at certain rpms (8,000 - 9,000 rpm)
So - I tortured you enough..... Here's what it looks like if you: Had a DL with the snorkel removed added the Superflares, then removed the secondary plates AND then retuned to Best Power (NOT tune "to an air fuel ratio) with a Teka 4usb on an EC997 dyne system. up to 7 to 8 True HP peak improvement (the correct way to state Hp increases) and...... +4 to 5 at 5,000 +5 to 6 at 6,000 +8 to 9 at 7000 +18 to 19 at 8,000 +23 to 24 at 9,000 It could even be a bit better with the addition of the below mentioned Ignition Advance Kit
Factory Pro Shift STAR kit - MUCH improved shifting
(sample pic) F-Pro Shift Star Kit **SHFT-EVO-S93-KT $169.95 Evo Shift STAR kit: STAR, Spring and gasket (the stock arm is ok) 1. Choose your shipping method** 2.	EVO Shift STAR Kit Includes Factory Pro's Detent Star - Changes the inelegant in town shifting the DL's are known for into the sweetest shifting bike. In town shifting is effortless and slick - on track or when high speed - a shift is a light tap and it's done. No bike "unsettling". Helps prevent hard missed "1-2" shifts. Helps prevent missed "lazy" shifts in the upper gears. Less clunk when shifting. Helps prevent fork and dog damage caused by missed shifts. Includes: Factory Pro designed, refined and manufactured DETENT STAR, heavy duty detent spring and gasket. Makes shifting quicker and more positive - "virtually" eliminating those nasty missed shifts. The stronger detent spring rotates the shift drum quicker, so the gears are more likely to engage under quick shift conditions - and "lazy" ones, too - The Factory Pro Microbearing removes friction for the quickest shifting. The STAR? Makes it AWESOMELY nice.
Factory Pro Ignition Advance Kit
RTR-SUZ-36-04 Ignition Advance Kit $99.95 1. Choose your shipping method 2.	Use this kit to advance the ignition timing 4 degrees for more power at part throttle and at full throttle. Install the key with offset to the LEFT to advance the timing! For easiest, quickest install - we suggest that you have access to an air or electric impact impact wrench - That makes it simple to remove the rotor bolt with an air impact wrench -- Kit includes special key AND Factory Pro's own heat treated, tool steel, plated rotor puller. Replaces OEM #09420-04008 Fits: TL1000s TL1000r SV1000 SV650 Hayabusa 1300 Takes about 1/2 hour to install and adds 1-2 True HP. ............................. Power Commander Ignition Module SCALING Notes (as of 2018) In my experience, the Power Commander Ignition module "says" +/- "10", but it really only seems to change the ignition timing about +/-2-3 degrees (as of at least 09/19). This was backed up by a DJ importer's experience. According to a customer, dj told him that ignition timing, doesn't affect power very much. That's just wrong. Factory Pro has over 30 years of research and development in high accuracy tuning in general and 20 years in producing Ignition Advancers (which REALLY DO change the ignition timing!) and we've been producing dynamometers that read to .1 and .2 HP increments. Testing on real load dyno, under realistic load, multiple DJ Ignition Modules on 600's and 1000's show that DJ +10 to DJ -10 "DJ degrees" equals around a 1% to 2% HP spread. How could you change ignition timing a supposed "TWENTY DEGREES" and only affect the HP by 1% to 2%???? You can't change the ignition timing 20 degrees and only affect the power by a couple percent - That's an obvious fact. If you had "Best Power" ignition timing set and you retard or advance the timing a REAL 10 degrees, the bike world hardly run, losing around 10% - 20% True HP if you retarded it. if you advanced it a real 10 degrees, you'd lose a bunch of power, too and also, likely, give it fits of detonation. Now - I'm still perplexed about the guy who posted that he gained 7 HP on his dynojet dyno with a "+5" setting on his DJ Ign Module!. 5 DJ degrees / about 1 REAL degree = 5 hp? and also perplexed about the ignition map that I got from a DJ sponsored Race team that showed +1 and +2 and -1's in their "official" map! Lessee? They changed the ignition timing a miniscule real .2 degree and they could see that hp change? The 06 R6 that we were working on? It actually wanted more than 10 "dynojet degrees" in quite a few every part throttle positions for Best Power settings and all of the full throttle settings ended up at +5 to +10 "dynojet degrees". Compare that to the zero settings at full throttle that were supplied and the +1, +2 an +3 "dj degree" settings that were supplied. A significant ignition timing change, that power can be measured would MAYBE be a real 1 degree - but you can only measure the HP change if the fuel mixture is absolutely PERFECT for Best power (NOT to misleading dealership level "AFR tuning") already - Normally, a REAL 2 degrees ignition timing change will change the power (on a Perfectly fueled engine) by about 1%. (example 100 True HP > 101 True HP if a "good direction change" OR 99 True HP if it was "the wrong 2 deg direction change"). When tuning on an EC997 dyno, (which has the capability of measuring .1 to .2 HP changes), essentially, there are only a couple of DJ Ign Module settings: Zero +5 Dynojet degrees or +10 Dynojet degrees and maybe "7" if "5" and "10" make the same power "5 Dynojet degrees = about 2 Real degrees" So - what does that tell you? That you need to do testing on a high quality dyne system. Then, you too, can learn all these "unpopular" facts! We helped Jordan Racing develop into the top ranked AMA team they are. Best regards - Marc
Teka SFI (Suzuki FI Adjuster Tool)
fuel injection $695 call 800 869-0497 works on TLs, gsxr's, Busa's! Hook it up - richen or lean it - unhook and ride! 30 seconds.	Teka SFI Suzuki Fuel Injection Adjusting Tool Taking the tuning industry by storm! Easy to tune the R's and S's with the same unit - Improves low rpm over pc's and stock! Wider range with fine increments - perfect for late model FI Suzuki motorcycles. Most reliable of all FI fueling tuning tools. Teka allows the user to dial in Suzuki fuel injection systems. Adjusts low speed / idle (unlike other units, like power commanders) and also adjusts different ranges of throttle opening, up to and including full throttle - and does it ON THE FLY! IDLE CIRCUIT: Make changes as bike is running, real time, unlike other FI adjuster boxes - absolutely saving time when adjusting the low speed mixture. Select a cylinder and make it richer or leaner - as the bike is idling. Just like adjusting fuel screws - except you don't get your hands dirty! Makes idle adjustment a 3 minute joy instead of a 15 minute, vague, aggravation! RUN CIRCUIT RANGE: Make changes as bike is running - on road or dyno. Teka extends the range, as compared to Yosh/Denso box, from equivalent max. 10 to max. ~20 for those high hp applications and when you need more fuel, like our 2000 model GSX-R750 that thrived on +5 at part throttle, +15 at Mid Throttle, and -2 at Full Throttle. RUN CIRCUIT INCREMENTS: Teka provides smaller throttle position increments, too. 1% to 10%, 11% to 25%,26% to 50%, 51% to 75% and 76% to 100% in proto Teka. Addresses Hayabusa off-idle glitches, where you need to richen up the "very small throttle opening" or just above that to address "hiccups". Check the fueling on your local Low Inertia 4-Gas EC997 eddy-current dyno, adjust the stock ECU for maximum power, set it and take your Teka Fuel Injection Programmer away with you. That's good for 1-2 True HP over pc2 on a Hayabusa installation when tested under load on real dyno.
Compliments to Catfish!
BMC air filter system	Drop in a Factory Pro BMC air filter and add 3hp-4hp at high rpm. Really. The stock FI system recognizes the increased airflow and automatically adds more fuel to compensate. We haven't seen any drivability problems caused by the filter - we can't say the same about other aftermarket filters! For best results, add +5 L with Yoshimura Fuel Injection Adjustment Box or really dial you bike in with the TEKA SFI (Suzuki FI adjust tool). Does not work well with power commander. Designed by the same Italian craftsmen that developed Ferrari's F1 Air Filters - this filter filters well, flows more air and lets the engine make more power than the stock air filter. Cleanable BMC air filter systems (avail. direct from Factory Pro) for more power - click here for more information. True Rear Wheel Horsepowertm scale - difference between other scales.	FI-BMC-14101S FI-BMC-14101R TL1000S FI-BMC-16304S FI-BMC-16304R TL1000R $49-95-$89.95 depending on model

In my experience, the $350 Power Commander Ignition module "says" +/- "10", but it really only seems to change the ignition timing about +/-2-3 degrees (as of at least 02/09). This was backed up by a DJ importer's experience.
According to a customer, dj told him that ignition timing, doesn't affect power very much.
That's just wrong.
Factory Pro has over 30 years of research and development in high accuracy tuning in general and 20 years in producing Ignition Advancers (which REALLY DO change the ignition timing!) and we've been producing dynamometers that read to .1 and .2 HP increments.

Testing on real load dyno, under realistic load, multiple DJ Ignition Modules on 600's and 1000's show that DJ +10 to DJ -10 "DJ degrees" equals aromd a 1% to 2% HP spread.
How could you change ignition timing a supposed "TWENTY DEGREES" and only affect the HP by 1% to 2%????

You can't change the ignition timing 20 degrees and only affect the power by a couple percent - That's an obvious fact.
If you had "Best Power" ignition timing set and you retard or advance the timing a REAL 10 degrees, the bike world hardly run, losing around 10% - 20% True HP if you retarded it.
if you advanced it a real 10 degrees, you'd lose a bunch of power, too and also, likely, give it fits of detonation.

Now - I'm still perplexed about the guy who posted that he gained 7 HP on his dynojet dyno with a "+5" setting on his DJ Ign Module! - .5 DJ degrees / about 1 REAL degree = 5 hp? and also perplexed about the ignition map that I got from a DJ sponsored Race team that showed +1 and +2 and -1's in their "official" map! Lessee? They changed the ignition timing a miniscule real .2 degree and they could see that hp change?
The 06 R6 that we were working on? It actually wanted more than 10 "dynojet degrees" in quite a few every part throttle positions for Best Power settings and all of the full throttle settings ended up at +5 to +10 "dynojet degrees". Compare that to the zero settings at full throttle that were supplied and the +1, +2 an +3 "dj degree" settings that were supplied.

A significant ignition timing change, that power can be measured would MAYBE be a real 1 degree - but you can only measure the HP change if the fuel mixture is absolutely PERFECT for Best power (NOT to misleading dealership level "AFR tuning") already -

Normally, a REAL 2 degrees ignition timing change will change the power (on a Perfectly fueled engine) by about 1%.

(example 100 True HP > 101 True HP if a "good direction change" OR 99 True HP if it was "the wrong 2 deg direction change").

So - the only reason to run a DJ Ignition Module is to use a DJ Quickshifter (until the TEKA 4 QS upgrade is released)
the DJ Ignition function is, otherwise, essentially $350 useless cost.

When tuning on and EC997 dyno, (which has the capability of measuring .1 to .2 HP changes), essentially, there are only a couple of DJ Ign Module settings:
Zero
+ or - 5 Dynojet degrees or
+ or 1 10 Dynojet degrees
and maybe "7" if "5" and "10" make the same power
Don't expect huge HP changes - as, as described above, you'll see 1 or 2 hp at best (at least on a real dyno)

So - what does that tell you?
That you need to do testing on a high quality dyne system, like the Factory Pro EC997 .
Then, you too, can learn all these "unpopular" facts!
Like inertia HP isn't real HP in the real world, dj hp numbers are bogus, tuning to an AFR for best performance is a myth....
Join Xxxxxx Racing and Vesrah Racing and Suzuki NZ -

(I'm sure that the guy who got "7 DJHP" with a real 1 degree (aka: 5 Dynojet degrees) isn't my buddy right about now, though....)

	Factory Pro's Superflare Billet Velocity Stacks		*Factory Pro's* *Ignition Advance Kit* 100% reliable advance method. NOT an add-on ignition module
	Factory Pro's Teka SFI Suzuki FI programming tool		BMC filters
	*Factory Pro's* *GSXR Shift STAR Kit* wicked good shifting!		*Factory Pro's* *Adjustable Centering Stud* An elegant part of blueprinting the shifting

Shifting Tech - gearbox secrets (or Marc Salvisberg gives it up......) So.... you've looked at gearboxes for years and inside the cases, they look pretty much the same. Every brand's transmissions feel and work differently, model to model and even specifically, bike to specific bike. One reason? Check this part out - If the Arms are centered, the trans tends to shift equally well, up or down. If the fingers are closer to the pin that the shift shaft arm needs to grab to downshift, downshifts will be "quicker" and vice versa.
		*This is good.* The pins are centered between fingers when the shift shaft is at rest. If you look closely at the LH picture, you can see that I shimmed up the shift shaft centering stud with a folded business card, ~.024" offset made the difference.
		This is not so good. The pins are not centered between fingers when the shift shaft is at rest. If they don't drop down fully, beyond the "pins", that prevents the "fingers" from dropping down and getting ready for the next shift. If you've got issues - check.

Adjustable Center Shift Stud, 8mm $24.95 (and possibly others that use 8x125mm threaded "fixed" stud) 1. Choose your shipping method 2.	If the shift shaft fingers aren't centered on the shift shaft, Factory Pro has the fix. It's a special 8mm thread, offset "centering" stud, adjustable by almost 1mm. For example, the difference in the above example was only .31mm/.024". More experienced mechanics will recall when almost all transmissions were equipped with parts like these. That allowed the engine builder to set the shift shaft to exactly in the center for the best possible shift performance. We'd all like to think that the original engineers never make mistakes, but then we wouldn't need warranties, yes? Install the stud with enough threads exposed for the locknut. Turn stud till shift shaft "fingers" are centered on detent STAR pins. Tighten down the locknut. Recheck indexing. This fits all the DL650 / SV650 and others.

Suzuki DL1000 V Strom
2014

FI-BMC-14101S
FI-BMC-14101R
TL1000S

FI-BMC-16304S
FI-BMC-16304R
TL1000R

$49-95-$89.95
depending on model

Suzuki DL1000 V Strom 2014

FI-BMC-14101S FI-BMC-14101R TL1000S

FI-BMC-16304S FI-BMC-16304R TL1000R

$49-95-$89.95 depending on model

Suzuki DL1000 V Strom
2014

FI-BMC-14101S
FI-BMC-14101R
TL1000S

FI-BMC-16304S
FI-BMC-16304R
TL1000R

$49-95-$89.95
depending on model